So I replaced my pinion seal and proceeded to put the pinion nut back on to where I marked it.
I’m aware that i should’ve done the preload properly but i needed to get it done quick.
Anyway, after i tightened the yoke until the marks lined up and there was no play, i checked the rolling torque with the torque wrench used for that, with the car jacked up, the seal in place and everything hooked up with the wheels on, and it reads 0 ft-lbs !
Should I just tighten it more until i get a decent amount of torque needed to turn it ?
I feel like the yoke was way too loose to begin with without me noticing.
thanks for your help, i’m really a newbie regarding rear end.
The way you’re doing this is a bad idea. Pull the 5 bolts that hold the pinion support in and use a new crush sleeve and pinion nut…from someone that has done it the wrong way and the correct way…
Overtightening and ruining bearing and then scattering metal into the ring and pinion. Or under tightening and causing the same due to pattern walking. You only have to pull the front bearing which slides off once you pull the pinion. You don’t have to touch the press on rear bearing
Besides, you need to pull the pinion carrier and install a new oring anyway…for less than 30 dollars you can get a new crush sleeve, pinion nut, and oring. That will do the job right. Memory serves the pinion preload for used bearing is 7-13 inch lbs.
If you replaced the seal and the rear end is a 31 spline the crush sleeve is a solid spacer and you are good to go. The crush sleeve is used only in the 28 spline third member so if you have one of those you need to replace it,
I too have tried to cheat on the crush sleeves by just going a “tad” tighter cause I had heard it was possible and others had succeeded at it. I did not succeed and it was much more work in the end.
Royce is correct, a solid spacer is the only way this works properly. If you have a crush sleave take it apart and replace
I just ordered a repair kit with a new crush sleeve and all, and will be taking the whole thing to a friend who does this for a living!
Im gonna replace the bearings while im at it
Well, I got all my bearings replaced and my gears are pretty well so that’s good… then… oh then…I did the dumbest mistake : When doing the preload, I tightened the pinion nut shooting for about 20/25 inch-pounds…
I tightened… and tightened, and eventually got to 10 inch-pounds. At that point I could barely rotate the yoke by hand…
Guess what? MY F******* WRENCH IS IN FOOT-POUNDS!
I now have a preload at 125 in-lbs … new crush sleeve here I come !
And new nut…I would highly recommend carefully inspecting the bearings…make sure the rollers didn’t make marks in the races…I like to use a dial indicator in lb wrench and it’s not breakaway torque. It’s torque required to rotate slowly
okay, I ordered a new nut !
The “new” one is CRAZY tight though thanks to me overtightening the damn thing, i’m gonna need the longest breaker bar ever to get this off…
Agree on the nut, Not only do they have thread lock on them they typically formed in a way for it to act as a lock nut. Just like a nylock or stover nut its a one time use.
dont worry about the mistake. It happens and is an easy one to make. Been there and done that with a torque wrench. Its the best experience to make sure you never do that again!
Well i might be cursed ! lol
I got a new nut and started working out the preload setup. Until I tried to screw the nut and it didn’t want to screw n after a few turns.
Then I went with the old nut to try and still it wouldn’t thread…
Turns out the very first thread on the pinion got messed up !
Now my mission : saving the pinion !
Does anyone know what size die cutter I would need to try and straighten this thread ?
Or maybe i could file/grind flat from the top until I “erased” the bad thread ? i don’t know
