A few general maintenance questions

Hello all,

I am new here so please excuse the questions if they are redundant. i want to be as thorough as i can with my “restorative” efforts to get the car back and fully operational. Short backstory but i have through unfortunate circumstances acquired a '70 Cougar. Short breakdown on the car is that it was completely rebuilt about 20 years ago but it has been sitting for a few years and requires the general maintenance you would expect. No brake fluid, rear diff is leaking, and could use an oil change to be safe. Other than throwing a battery in it and filling the bowl a few times she runs great, so far.

Shes got the 351 Cleveland in it, with unknown(if any) engine modifications. I can tell you it has an MSD ignition and long tubes. But thats it. The Marti says it has the 3.25 9 Bolt in it, and a 3 speed. i have general mechanical knowledge of how things work, I have worked on a good amount of vehicles in my day but never something of such significance. Ive been asking around and looking everywhere for the right fluids to change and fill the car with but am struggling to find the right answers. Ive seen people preaching to run a zinc additive oil here and elsewhere, and ive been suggested not to by someone im close to and trust a lot who has owned numerous similar vehicles of that era.

Please point me in the right direction. Oil type and weight, filter, diff fluids i.e. I am located in Ohio so it gets chilly up here but i dont plan on driving the vehicle in anything less than 60 degree weather.

I am currently in the process of bench bleeding the master to go through and bleed the brakes. There is a little bit of corrosion where the master paired with the booster and that pushrod slid in an out. when i cleaned the master out it shot out jet black fluid mixed with a little gunk. Would it be a better option to just replace the master for safety sake or assuming it bench bleeds fine reinstall it?

Anything else to check?

Thank you.

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Where in Ohio???

The master cylinder needs to be replaced if it does not bench bleed. The booster is usually the problem. Your car should have a 9" rear.

Motorcraft FL-1A is the correct oil filter, and Valvoline Racing Oil is easy to get and has the zinc additive (which is needed). I run 10w-30 in my 1970 351C. The owners manual reprint is still available and has the other recommended fluids.

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On Valvoline VR1 I usually buy it in zoro
https://www.zoro.com/valvoline-motor-oil-1-qt-size-sae-30-sae-grade-822401/i/G6574193/?origin=sayt_typeahead
After your first purchase they will stock you with 20% off coupons every few months. Makes it a solid buy.

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Northwest, Toledo area

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Findlay!!!

The car has been around the toledo area most all of its life. Ive seen a few eliminators, and only 1 or 2 verts or coups. Theres still a good amount out there. You see mustangs but rarely cougars! Hopefully getting it out this weekend but a lot to cramp in.

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