I want to put my battery in the trunk. Looking for someone that has done this, what are the best relocation kits, cable routing advice, I will be using an Optima battery.
Make sure you have heavy enough cables due to length of run. If you don’t already have one buy a hydraulic cable crimper (Harbor Freight) and use quality ends. Marine grade cable worth considering.
Use 2/0 fine wire welding cable and solder on ends. Pre solder ends with pellets available for specific size cable and or pos/neg , rt or straight or left from McMaster Carr
The Optima batteries die early and often don’t make their warranty. There are much better options for a battery, many of them much cheaper.
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Just completed mine a few weeks ago and everything is operating great. Below is my wiring schematic. To me the big advantage is if I’m at a hotel or anything like that, I can flip the breaker in the trunk and cut the power to the whole car. I ran my wires down the trans tunnel.
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Can I ask the reasoning for the battery to be mounted in trunk? While there are reasons for it its not always a necessity either. IMO to do this right its alot of work and not all that cheap.
Like was mentioned I would steer clear of an optima, They are expensive and not even close to the quality they once where. If being mounted inside a passenger compartment you need an AGM battery. No lead acid batteries due to their off gassing.
You most likely wont find a kit for a cougar, Mustang probably but not a cougar. You could make a mustang kit work but remember the cougars are longer so depending on routing you may be too short on cabling if using a mustang kit. Use a high quality/high strand count copper automotive grade wire/ Use quality copper connectors. Watch out for “copper clad aluminum wiring” A hydraulic crimper is a great idea, Harbor freight or amazon sells them for less then 100 bucks and decent quality.
Make sure you fuse everything, loom the wire to protect it from chaffing and heat. Remember the longer the run of wire the higher gauge you will need to keep up with current demands.
Check out these guys, you should be able to get anything wiring related here
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I could not see how big the actual battery was but there was a Cougar running around that had the battery moved under the front fender ( in the fender well ) It was supposed to a Lithium battery and very light compared to the type 24 lead acid battery. They used the original battery location to mount a bunch of other electrical stuff.
Please excuse the neglect. I built this car in the 90’s. I did everything to it I ever read in HotRod Magazines. I was in my 30’s and had some dreams.
I used a marine battery box I found at the local boat store in Texas. Lots of boats stores there. Then to the welding shop for 15? feet of .575 od fine wire cable 600volt.
First hole was drilled behind the right shock tower. A grommet was installed and I made sure the cable sat comfortably straight through the apron. In the wheel well. An aluminum plate was made to shield the cable along the foot well. The second and I belive last hole was drilled through the kick panel. From there the cable ran past the antenna and through the rocker under the door sill plate. Through the ÂĽwindow area and up into the trunk by way of the hole in the sail panel already provided.
Since I was using an electric fuel pump I put in a primer button for it. Push the black spring button and the pump runs. Very useful. Then made a bracket for the relay, button, and cutoff switch. Mounted everything above the differential. The battery I sourced was for a BMW I think. It had a closed gas top that I could then run the vapors from the battery directly out of the trunk to the drivers side trunk drop down. As you can see, the ground was short.
But it all worked, if you like listening to a blender chasing you. Looking at the pictures I think I used the curiosity light switch on the dash for the power off/on to the fuel pump also. It has xr7 wiring. I do remember forgetting to switch it on the first couple rides. It’s that gut feeling something went south when it starts to stumble and your brain is racing to figure out “WHAT NOW” that keeps me alive. Oh, it’s just a switch…
BatteryCablesUSA will make you any length/gauge/ends that you want and are very quick turnaround, cheaper than you can buy the parts yourself
I also added a brace under the outer part of the trunk pan ledge for added support for the heavy battery
+1 to this, Optima quality has gone down the tubes. Plus you can get AGM batteries at any auto parts store these days.
A bit late to the topic, but had to gather some info. I purchased through Summit Racing a Billet Battery Box GRP 27, EMS-MS374-81MB
This is not the permanent battery, and a cutoff switch will be added.
I also purchased a Remote Power outlet box, EMS-MS302-31BK
While I had the battery mounted in the trunk as a balance issue, it turns out it was a fortuitous decision. With the addition of A/C, going to Hydraboost for brakes, and the Rack & Pinion P/S, there was a lot of real estate being used up.
above is the radiator overflow where the battery would have mounted. Note Trinary switch is not completed yet.
1gauge copper cable is run under the carpet, Positive and Negative separated by the transmission tunnel. This to eliminate RF interference to the Snyper. Ring Bros Billet hinges.
Hope this gives some ideas.
Best
Ron