Good morning and I hope this finds everyone well.
My 1971 has a bone stock 351C and I have sourced in Edelbrock intake and four barrel matched Edelbrock carb that I would like to install next week.
This will be my first time swapping an intake on a Ford V-8, and while I am decent with a wrench, that seems like a perfect opportunity get some coaching and experience from you all.
Any tips or lessons learned to pass along for a newbie to this job?
Thanks!
If using a metal “bath tub” intake gasket, do not put any sealant around any of the intake ports or exhaust crossover.
The usual end gaskets with a dab of sealant at the corners is OK.
I’m curious about the sealant question. When I put my 289 together with the stock cast iron intake, I didn’t use sealant around the ports the first time around (but yes in the corners) and ended up with significant vacuum leaks. Had to pull it off again and put a thin layer of sealant on both sides of the intake gaskets around all the ports, and that solved it.
Thank you for the responses.
Do you think it’s OK to reuse the existing bolts? They’re not under a whole lot of stress so my guess is it would be OK but seems like now is a good time to ask.
After doing a little research, I see that 351C intake gaskets are a conventional type of intake gasket. So follow the gasket manufacturer’s recommendation. I am more familiar with the bathtub gasket used on the 351M/400, which are similar to the 351C but have a taller block deck.
On my 351W I use Fel-Pro intake gaskets with the sealing lines printed on the gaskets. I have always installed these “dry” and have not had any vacuum leaks Of course use the end seals with a dab of RTV in the corners.
Intake bolts can be reused with no problem.
On any Cleveland or other Ford engine that uses the “sled” rocker pivots, I would replace the rocker arm bolts with new ones. I have had a couple of these break after engine rebuilds.
You may have to to some work to connect the throttle linkage on the Edelbrock carburetor. Edelbrock sells an extension piece for the kickdown linkage in case you need it. Also the fuel inlet tube that loops below the choke housing is a big help. I have that, an in inline fuel filter and stainless braided hose with AN fittings between the fuel pump and carb.
Make sure you get all traces of antifreeze off the mating surfaces- nothing ruins a good seal like antifreeze. Also, you’ll need to change your air cleaner decal. 
Nice thing about the 351C is there’s no coolant involved in an intake swap. Most people, myself included, ditch the valley pan and do not use gaskets on either end. Use a very thick (like nearly an inch thick) bead of oil resistant RTV on the ends instead.
Be sure to re - torque the intake after one heat cycle.
Work, family, life in general keeps getting in the way of this project but I very much appreciate the feedback and will put all of these tips to good use when I can finally dig in.
Thank you.