Autolite 4300 Pictures

Calicat. So I found some things in other posts. This one on the concoursmustang forum by 70cj48.“All the 4300 D0OF carbs have an automatic, hot air choke. I have 5 or 6 of the AB (4 speed) and AC (Auto) carbs, the difference is that the AC carbs have the kickdown rod linkage and a dashpot, and the AB carbs have a carb solenoid, and no kickdown lever. I’ve seen several AD carbs (auto, AC) but have yet to find one dated right for my car that wasn’t outrageously expensive.” So looks like I need to find a solenoid for my D0OF-AB. I also found this about how the solenoid works on the 428cobrajet forum. "Research on the differences in the carbs leads me to believe that carbs provided for use on all 1968 and 1969 engines, and 1970 engines without air conditioning, used an anti-stall dashpot to avoid stalling when releasing the accelerator quickly. Carbs used on 1970 engines equipped with air conditioning used an electric solenoid (service part number D0OZ-9D856-A). According to the September 1969 edition of Autolite Shop Tips the solenoid was used to improve engine shut-down:
“On engine shut-down, a solenoid plunger closes the throttle plates in TWO steps. Instead of going directly from a high rpm to engine off, the plunger holds the plates open to a specified rpm while the solenoid is energized. When the ignition is turned off, the solenoid de-energizes, the plunger withdraws, and the throttle plates close further than if no solenoid were used. This more effectively shuts off the air/fuel mixture flow.” I guess I could look at my wire harness to see if there is a wire for the solenoid also.

There is a wire on your 70 Cougar for the solenoid. Look for a large white bullet connector with a bluish-gray colored wire where the underdash harness comes out of the firewall near the center of the engine compartment. That will be a fused RUN-only line.

Yup that all sounds right. Dashpot slows throttle closure to prevent stalling, solenoid shuts throttle plates completely when you turn off engine to prevent run-on. My car has auto but no AC and uses the D0OF-AC carb. It indeed has the kickdown rod, dashpot, but no solenoid. White connector is present on my firewall but nothing is plugged into it. I did just notice in the 70 shop manual that the -AB carb for manual trans cars has some differences from the -AC and -AD carbs. If yours originally had the -AD carb, why not just remove dashpot and install solenoid on a -AC carb?

My '70 XR-7 has no a/c but does have a 4 speed. So the “AB” is what my car would have had. The AD: “I’ve seen several AD carbs (auto, AC)”. The carb I bought has the round bracket for the solenoid. I have found a few '71 solenoids with the red wire. Just need to purchase and buy the blue pig tail to change over. When I get the carb, I’ll post some pics.

Got it - so you are just trying to find the solenoid to put on your correct AB carb. Good luck!

Now that the conversation has move to 70 and solenoids I thought I would post a few pictures. Example is a spring 70 built M code automatic car

Boot has slipped off some
Also shows the short spade attachment to the solenoid, the short wire and the connection to the longer wire that travels to the firewall




Calicat. Honestly just learning. In the beginning wasn’t sure what was correct. Thanks for everyone’s help and pictures.

Understand - our cars be like big expensive jigsaw puzzles.

So here are some pics of the D0OF-AB I bought. Looks to have been restored, run and then removed. Every pic inverts 90 degrees to the left!?





The check valve that is typically situated between the secondary’s is not on this one. The provisions are there, being the 2 screw holes and the port. however, the port is plugged off. Being aware that the Autolite/Motorcraft had gone through many renditions since being introduced in 1967 does anyone know if there was a specific issue to the valve of which is being referred?

The missing valve is the hot idle compensator. It was a bimetal strip that opened when hot to allow additional air into the idle mixture to prevent idling too rich when hot. By 1970, it was only used on Thunderbirds and Lincolns. Not sure about earlier versions.

So J_Speegle, how early or late was the solenoid with the spade clip used like in the pics you posted? Thanks

So I guess I should quote you to notify you about my question above about the spade connector vs bullet connector

Sorry the forums do not alwayslet me know when I get a response :frowning: Yes I clicked the box here on this site. Wasn’t ignoring you or others

Haven’t look at when and if there was a running change during 70 production.

Other applications (but not all) used the electric/powered idle solenoid so maybe those can help or not

Will see if I have any other examples that show the details as add to the survey and this thread. Expect any examples to have the air cleaner in the way

That looks amazing! Did Joe B. do the work?

William at:

Apparently the top screws should have been black phosphate/oil, but otherwise a very nice restoration. What impressed me most is their lifetime warranty for an extra $100. Mine went back twice for clean out before I replaced my rusty fuel system. It always came back working great!

Hello All, bringing this back up with a little detail of where I ended up. I have completed the work on the 4300 and its all good. Took a while with work, etc.

I tried a couple of other plating methods with no real success in the amateur mode. So I switched it back up to nickel plating with vinegar and finished up my 4300.

With the exception of the top screws that are to be black oxide, everything in this pick was plated in my little vat:


I did not do the brass parts. I left the areas inside the carb dirty so as to not allow the nickel to go to any internals. The plating is so thin that I felt it would not matter but decided not to try to get the insides done.

My final impression is that I would do it again. My main purpose is to keep the corrosion and rust at bay. We will see what time has to say about that.

It is easy when doing small stuff. Here is a nut getting plated. Takes about 30 seconds.

I have made a little kit so when I want to plate some more, I almost just have to plug it in.

Thats all for now.

Gary

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