Okay, it’s been awhile since I’ve made any headway on this '69. Life happens 
. So I have gotten block back from the machine shop. New sleeve in number 8, a quick bubble bath and blow-dry and we’re finally ready for assembly. The first issue I’ve encountered is the cam plug. I went to install it and found it was grossly undersized. I measured the rear cam bearing journal and it measured out at 2.11" is that normal for a 351w? Anyway I’m on the prowl.
Since it’s been to a machine shop, make sure you clean the main and cam galleys with brushes and soap as well if you haven’t already.
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You are measuring it as too small. Are you using t gauges and a micrometer? Likely your measurement methods…
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Thank you for the information. Yes I used a brush on the oil passages, that machining oil is sticky stuff. I’ll check the sizes a little closer using the method you mentioned. I’m suspecting the Cam plug was manufactured in China and I will need to source a better brand.
Okay, after a quick re-measure the can bearing journal measured at 2.1447. I found on rock auto a .060" over cam plug that will do the trick. Thanks again EliminatorClone for the advice.
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Quick question, the heads that came with the engine have been completely gone through to include new valves, spring, seats, rockers(stock cast), keepers, etc. now I need to make a decision. Do I bolt these on as is and live with the fact that it’s a 1975 351w. Or do I remove the air injector bump by porting them out at a minimum hopefully helping them breathe better. Or save up and go aftermarket heads and try and sell these.
I would be very tempted to go with aftermarket aluminum heads. I used Edelbrock E street and they worked very well in my 302 build.
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I’m inclined to go down that road. I’m at a disadvantage because I bought the car completely disassembled and have no reference point to compare with. Maybe with these heads I’ll have plenty of power? The engine is also missing the exhaust manifolds and other components like the p/s pump, ac system, alternator and all their brackets. Bring the old girl back is going to be expensive. 
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I’ve decided to start the disassembling process. Flipping a coin I’ve started in the rear and will work forward. I’ve discovered that it’s had some damage and repairs to the rear passenger side. Issue I’ll need to address right out of the gate is the panel that holds the lights, both quarter panels (rust), and maybe some of the trunk pan. The frame rails don’t look damaged but I don’t know what points to measure to check for alignment. And do I start on a rotisserie or frame rack?
. Where’s the best source for patch panels? And how’s the best way to check alignment as the picture shows things are not aligned.
The damage I see in the first picture looks like it was caused by heavy items transported in the trunk without securing them in place or dropping it in the trunk. If that area is not rusted through it may be just as easy to body work it back closely to how if belongs.
I think the bumper misalignment may be caused by the damage that crushed the rear valance. The trunk lid looks like it is well aligned as are the rear extensions. The latch bracket loos normal to me. Get that bumper off and see if the rear cross member looks bad. If you think the frame may be compromised, then for sure have it checked on a frame rack at a competent body shop.
As for patch panels, it depends on what part of the country you’re in. I have used West Coast Classic Cougar in Oregon a lot. But they are only about 5 hours south of me. John’s Cougar Central in Michigan and others are around.
Good luck with that Cougar.
Badcatt, thank you for the advice. After a indepth inspection I agree that the damage inside the trunk was probably caused by heavy impacts. I also found the Bent pan that has caused the quarter panel to be pushed in from the bumper. In the pictures it’s obvious that the previous repair was a slam job that I’ll need to fix. I’m by know means a body technician, but I’m not afraid to dive in and learn something new I’ll post more pics as I get into the demolition.
Cheers!
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Xr7g428,
I wasn’t really excited about spending the money on so aluminum heads so I started looking really close at the heads that came with this engine. I was a little disappointed to discover that the air induction ports are actually drilled! This makes them useless without an air pump system to my knowledge. So the engine build is on hold until I can find new heads or save the cash for aftermarkets. On a military retirement it could be awhile
Thanks for your input
Cheers
Okay, I’ve been able to remove the fuel tank and rear seat only to discover that there’s been some fairly extensive previous damage to the rear passenger side and some really bad body repair along the way. I think I’m going to need a trunk pan, passenger rear quarter. My question is, is the '69 trunk pan the same as a 67/68? A quick Internet search shows lots of '68/'67 but none for '69.
69 is different. John’s CC does new 69-70 panels either side of the gas tank. Else it’s a parts car. I see WCCC is out of secondhand stock.
Maybe this is true?
Thank you for the heads up. This has been a steep learning learning process. I’ll call them today.