Thank you for the heads up CougarCJ
Okay, while the epoxy cures for the hoist bolts I decided to tare down the engine that was sitting beside the car in the storage unit. The storyline was it was fully rebuilt and ready to go. I needed to see first hand before putting it in. The block numbers and heads suggest it’s not from the car.
There’s water damage in hole number 8 so I’ll need to sleeve the cylinder because it already has.0040 pistons in it.
Sleeving is o-k. A windsor can go 60 over, if it will clean up by that point. Personally, I would attempt to find a block with the date code of C9AE. While it makes no difference on performance by having the D4AE block, I prefer the visible casting numbers to be correct at a glance. The smaller date codes, not as important unless it’s concourse type restoration. Depending on the level of restoration you are doing, it’s something to consider now before investing in the mid-70’s engine.
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I agree with your point. At this stage in the game I’m trying to determine if a restoration is the best path or will the costs exceed the end value. Being this is the first attempt at bringing a car back to usefulness I will learn a lot from the experience. But this model is not a largely sought after model. So the question is, do I bring it back to original or do I do my the best to keep it close to original as cost allows. My lack of experience still leaves me with many questions and I’m really seeing the value of this community.
My 2 cents. Keep it as original as possible. Being that it’s NOT a highly optioned car, I think that is the best possible solution to your dilemma. You will NEVER get out what you put in it, financially wise. But in order to “Get back” your “investment”, that is the way to go!!!
Valid question.
For me I’ve always been content with the goal of having a nice driver quality car.
Looking at the pictures posted, you’re starting point is far better than some of the projects I’ve taken on and those I’ve seen others take on. Doesn’t look like much fabrication will be required and that’s a good thing - time consuming and arguably one of the most difficult skills to develop. Also, parts for these cars are generally available which is a huge benefit when taking on a major project.
Couple of points to consider:
(1) nearly every project I’ve had I lose money - my wife would be eager to back me up on that.
(2) it’s best to start with a car that is as close to done as you can afford.
But what I’ve learned personally is I enjoy doing the work myself. Can’t explain it other than in some weird way it has been fulfilling.
If you are willing to do most of the work yourself and your goals are understood I’d go for it.
That car has promise and shouldn’t break the bank in the process.
Jim
IMO the best return on a Cougar that isn’t in the rare and desirable categories is to build it to drive it. Keep the Cougar dna of sequential turn signals and flip up headlights then make driveline reliable with disc brakes, new suspension pieces and overdrive transmission. Have a car you drive- the fun factor and driving enjoyment make up for the lower dollar value on a less rare car. I’d keep the two tone on your standard.
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Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I’m thinking that my approach will be a mixture of both camps. I will keep it as original as cost permits while adding upgrades when they don’t take away from the heritage. For example, this engine came with an MDX distributor and module. Would it make sense to go back to a points and condenser ignition. If this was an Eliminator maybe, but it will never be that or I’ll never try and make this into a Eliminator. On a sad note, the PO cut a hole in the hood for the ovel air cleaner clearance. So finding a good or hood scoop is another decision. This could get expensive.
That is COOL!!!
Do you mean MSD ignition? MSD is quality stuff, as long as it is appropriate stuff for your application. No matter how good of quality the distributor is, if it doesn’t have vacuum advance, it isn’t right fora street driven car. Or you can lock it in place and find a way to control timing electronically. I personally like the points distributor with a Pertronix 1. Looks right and works great.
Yes, MDS 
thanks for setting me straight. This particular system has a vacuum advance and is also tunable through the module. It has a rev limiter I think but up until now all my knowledge is from YouTube. I know the old systems because back in the late 70s tell mid 90s I was a drivability mechanic. Yes I lived through the beginning of emissions control and the fall of the muscle cars, 
. This project is like reliving my youth. I am amazed at the knowledge of the people on this site. Thank you for the help.
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Just a quick update. I decided to go with the the engine that was on a pallet with the car when we got it out of the storage unit. Other then the water damage on cylinder 8, everything is new and is within tolerance. I realized it’s out of a 1974 truck but the price fits my budget. I had the block sleeved and the machine shop said the block was straight. So I’m starting to put it all back together. However, it’s missing some major parts. Oil pump, pump drive shaft and pick up just to mention a few. I’ve been looking for parts that leads me to my question. Has anyone used rock auto? They seem to have everything at reasonable prices.
The better question is Who hasn’t used Rock Auto?
RA is fast, reliable, cheap. A lot, but not all, of what they sell comprises cheap imports. Do your research, stick to known brands and you’ll be fine.
This might be a crazy question but after the soap and water bath on the engine block I’m going to paint the exposed casting. What is the go-to brand for the best paint/color for a 1969 351?
Hi ! This post may help you get some answers.
Ford blue on motors in Cougar CommunityClassic Cougar Paint and Body
Thank you!
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You are welcome !