I installed a reproduction brake distribution block/proportioning valve (from WCCC) in my '68 cat. When I bled the brakes I would have thought the light would have come on and (since I bled the front last) the front brakes would not be working. Neither of those things happened. Is the distribution block not working? Does bleeding the brakes not involve enough pressure to move the distribution block piston?
Thanks,
Doug
If you did it exactly right, then it won’t move the internal piston that triggers the switch. Also, check to see if you can by pass the switch and make it light up. Many times the bulb is burnt out or removed.
The light should come on when the ignition is in the start position. If the piston moves the light stays on when the ign is in the on or acc position. you can light the light by using a paper clip and insert in both ends of the switch connector and grounding it.
The light does not come on when I short the switch so I’ll need to track that down sometime soon. It would not have come on anyway since the piston did not move when I was bleeding. If bleeding is not enough of a “leak” to make the piston move, how much of a leak does it take?
In my '67 the light came on when I had a leaky wheel cyl & the bowl in the master was empty.
How are you shorting the switch? You must connect the two leads in the electrical connecter then ground the connection, just going to the two leads does not short the light, they are already connected when plugged into the block, the piston moving creates the ground to light the light.
Mistress - missed your grounding instruction the first time. When shorted and grounded the light does work. Thanks
R Code - I guess as long as there is fluid in the system the pressure is even enough in the two channels to keep the piston centered. I’ll assume the distribution block will work if I ever need it.