I converted my 69 Cougar from Drums to front Disc with rear drums. Changed the pedal. New booster and master cylinder, new proportioning valve, new calipers and rubber lines. After installation we tried to bleed brakes but had a blocked line and ended up breaking the tear drop rod so had to get a new one and start over. We fixed the line and got the system to bleed at each wheel. I have blead the system. The car stops fine but it is like the pedal doesn’t do anything until almost on the floor. Not sure if I bench bled the master cylinder before assembly of the second time but did bleed the system. Any suggestions as to where to start?
Typically the common mistake is to install the calipers on the wrong sides. The bleeders face to the rear if they are correct.
I will check this tonight. THANKS
Having the exact same issue on my 68. For the 68 at least, the newer master cylinders have a 1" bore, instead of 1 1/8" bore on the originals. This will require more fluid (pedal travel) to engage the brakes. The other thing to check is the back rear drum pads. If they are not adjusted correctly, it will require more pedal travel as well.
Looking at my calipers and the bleeding screw is straight up. When I converted the fronts to disc brakes the shop told me the calipers are 4 piston (P) 4404 and I should buy pads for 67 mustang disc brakes
Aftermarket kit call the manufacturer for advice.
Ok some more history. My car was originally all drum brakes. I converted it to power drum brakes and had to change the pedal then. Question is the pedal for powered drum vs powered front disc the same?
I replaced the master cylinder on my 76 Ranchero earlier this year and had this exact same issue. The brakes stopped the car fine but the pedal was almost to the absolute floor, with the first 75% of the brake pedal travel as doing nothing. What fixed this was the adjustment of the engagement rod. Inside the master cylinder, I had a rod coming through the firewall that was attached to the brake pedal. This rod moved into the master cylinder and the length was adjustable by twisting the end of it. It took a little time, but I was able to slowly adjust that rod that the pedal travel would only move about 25% before engaging the brakes. It gave me a much greater peace of mind in traffic. I am not sure if yours is the same way, but this is what worked for my Ranchero system. Hope this helps.