So car has been sitting for 10 years I’ve bled in new fluid and the car stops fine. The brakes probably have at most 20-30k miles on them pre sitting. Should I replace cylinders and all or do you guys think they should be fine? I live on a mountain so brakes are definitely a priority. If I was to inspect them what should be things I should look for other than drum condition, cylinder leaks, and pad wear?
Yes, I would check all of the above and also check the front and rear rubber lines, they are like tires that set, they don’t wear out they just deteriorate.
The two main things are steering and brakes .
Springs - you may want to just change them out even if the pads are good. Similar to the rubber hoses they can age.
E-brake cable - while it’s not part of typical stopping it does become important when you park it - especially on a hill (no need to put any additional strain on the trans)
On cars that have been inactive you need to check the adjusters on drum brakes and make sure they are free and the adjuster cables are not broken.
sweet got a good check list for when I get the drums off thanks guys!
Anything that has been sitting that long should really be gone through. DOT3, 4 and 5.1 all have a propensity to absorb moisture and in doing so allow the system develop rust and usually cause the piston seals to swell and distort. I don’t know what your mileage is. However, generally speaking the springs are usually in decent shape. As Royce stated; I would disassemble the brakes, clean the parts and backing plates, lubricate the shoe contact points. You can use caliper grease for the contact points. Use it VERY sparingly. Clean up the adjusters, lubricate the threads and the cap with the same caliper grease. A little goes a long way. If the shoes have been contaminated by fluid or look to be glazed ( Shiny) replace them. The rears are often serviced in two sizes. 1.75 and 2.0 inches. Know what you have before you order them. Be sure to get Brakekleen. I recommend the red can because it cleans much better and a small disposable drain pan to catch the run off. Older linings are made with asbestos. If you decide to service your brakes, the 10.00 hardware kits won’t break the bank. Change them with new shoes.
P.S. If you have power brakes, make SURE you see no fluid running down the face of the booster below the rear of the master cylinder. If so, you will need to replace the booster. Even with manual brakes if there is any fluid internally in the boot or on the firewall, replace the master as well.
If you do wind up having to replace the master, be sure to bench bleed the unit BEFORE installation. it makes life a whole lot easier.
Remember that DOT3,4 and 5.1 WILL eat paint. Be careful!
-Keith
Awesome thanks Keith! good info to absorb. Your guess is as good as mine with the mileage. The car was owned by young people so I don’t have much in the way of a history on the car. My dad helped me keep a file of what we did to the car when I got it. But previous owner had no history except for the old heads and intake from the rebuild. No power brakes but the master cylinder looks a tad rough and has never been replaced since I’ve had it. (no leaks tho)
I’ll pick up some new rubber lines, and some grease/brake cleaner and get in there for inspection. I actually installed the current brakes when I was working for a mechanic.