brake warning light on dash. 1968 XR-7

[MercuryC00]

hey guys,

I just got my midland brake booster rebuilt on my 1968 XR-7 so I had to take my master off to reinstall the booster. I bleed the master on the car and then bled all my brakes furthest to closest. Everything was going to plan as there was no more air in the lines and I had a relatively stiff pedal. Although, once I started the car the BRAKE warning light on the dash was on and stayed on. I noticed that my front callipers were sticking on as well. I figured that they might be seized on as I hadn’t driven the car in a few weeks while waiting for the booster to be rebuilt. So I took it for a drive and the callipers let go. No more seizing and they were functioning properly. When I got the car back in my driveway the callipers started to stick on again. Im at a loss and have no idea what the problem might be. Keep in mind the BRAKE warning light stayed on the whole time and is still on.

Thanks for reading and im looking forward to advice!

[Royce]

Probably unrelated if you just bled the brakes. The brake warning lamp is easily skewed one way or the other if you did not install a brake warning lamp centering tool while bleeding.

So the front wheels skid when you drive? The brake pads should never retract from the disc so much that there is any gap.

hey guys,

I just got my midland brake booster rebuilt on my 1968 XR-7 so I had to take my master off to reinstall the booster. I bleed the master on the car and then bled all my brakes furthest to closest. Everything was going to plan as there was no more air in the lines and I had a relatively stiff pedal. Although, once I started the car the BRAKE warning light on the dash was on and stayed on. I noticed that my front callipers were sticking on as well. I figured that they might be seized on as I hadn’t driven the car in a few weeks while waiting for the booster to be rebuilt. So I took it for a drive and the callipers let go. No more seizing and they were functioning properly. When I got the car back in my driveway the callipers started to stick on again. Im at a loss and have no idea what the problem might be. Keep in mind the BRAKE warning light stayed on the whole time and is still on.

Thanks for reading and im looking forward to advice!

[MercuryC00]

Probably unrelated if you just bled the brakes. The brake warning lamp is easily skewed one way or the other if you did not install a brake warning lamp centering tool while bleeding.

So the front wheels skid when you drive? The brake pads should never retract from the disc so much that there is any gap.

hey guys,

I just got my midland brake booster rebuilt on my 1968 XR-7 so I had to take my master off to reinstall the booster. I bleed the master on the car and then bled all my brakes furthest to closest. Everything was going to plan as there was no more air in the lines and I had a relatively stiff pedal. Although, once I started the car the BRAKE warning light on the dash was on and stayed on. I noticed that my front callipers were sticking on as well. I figured that they might be seized on as I hadn’t driven the car in a few weeks while waiting for the booster to be rebuilt. So I took it for a drive and the callipers let go. No more seizing and they were functioning properly. When I got the car back in my driveway the callipers started to stick on again. Im at a loss and have no idea what the problem might be. Keep in mind the BRAKE warning light stayed on the whole time and is still on.

Thanks for reading and im looking forward to advice!

I looked online and I can’t seem to find what you’re talking about when you say the 'brake warning lamp centering tool". Is it a specialty tool? Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll. After taking it for a short drive it seems to correct itself and the pads won’t grab the rotors but when parked and driven again the next day the process starts all over again with the pads grabbing the rotors without the pedal being depressed.

[Royce]

It’s a tool that you need if you want the light to be out. The distribution valve only turns the idiot light on or off. It (the valve or the idiot light) has no effect on braking.

Brake Distribution Switch Tool - New ~ 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar / 1967 -...

Probably unrelated if you just bled the brakes. The brake warning lamp is easily skewed one way or the other if you did not install a brake warning lamp centering tool while bleeding.

So the front wheels skid when you drive? The brake pads should never retract from the disc so much that there is any gap.

hey guys,

I just got my midland brake booster rebuilt on my 1968 XR-7 so I had to take my master off to reinstall the booster. I bleed the master on the car and then bled all my brakes furthest to closest. Everything was going to plan as there was no more air in the lines and I had a relatively stiff pedal. Although, once I started the car the BRAKE warning light on the dash was on and stayed on. I noticed that my front callipers were sticking on as well. I figured that they might be seized on as I hadn’t driven the car in a few weeks while waiting for the booster to be rebuilt. So I took it for a drive and the callipers let go. No more seizing and they were functioning properly. When I got the car back in my driveway the callipers started to stick on again. Im at a loss and have no idea what the problem might be. Keep in mind the BRAKE warning light stayed on the whole time and is still on.

Thanks for reading and im looking forward to advice!

I looked online and I can’t seem to find what you’re talking about when you say the 'brake warning lamp centering tool". Is it a specialty tool? Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll. After taking it for a short drive it seems to correct itself and the pads won’t grab the rotors but when parked and driven again the next day the process starts all over again with the pads grabbing the rotors without the pedal being depressed.

[MercuryC00]

It’s a tool that you need if you want the light to be out. The distribution valve only turns the idiot light on or off. It (the valve or the idiot light) has no effect on braking.

Brake Distribution Switch Tool - New ~ 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar / 1967 - 1973 Ford Mustang ( 1967 Mercury Cougar, 1968 Mercury Cougar, 1969 Mercury Cougar, 1970 Mercury Cougar, 1971 Mercury Cougar, 1972 Mercury Cougar, 1973 Mercury Cougar, 1967 Ford Mustang, 1968 Ford Mustang, 1969 Ford Mustang, 1970 Ford Mustang, 1971 Ford Mustang, 1972 Ford Mustang, 1973 Ford Mustang ) at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source

Probably unrelated if you just bled the brakes. The brake warning lamp is easily skewed one way or the other if you did not install a brake warning lamp centering tool while bleeding.

So the front wheels skid when you drive? The brake pads should never retract from the disc so much that there is any gap.


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I looked online and I can’t seem to find what you’re talking about when you say the 'brake warning lamp centering tool". Is it a specialty tool? Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll. After taking it for a short drive it seems to correct itself and the pads won’t grab the rotors but when parked and driven again the next day the process starts all over again with the pads grabbing the rotors without the pedal being depressed.

oh alright, I see what you mean. Thanks for your help!

[ClawIt]

Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll.

The diaphragm on the rebuilt Midland is probably now more forward then when old. You need to re-adjust the plunger rod into the MC. If slightly forward then slight pressure to the calipers. The shop manual shows how to make a gauge to measure the Midland and adjust the rod.

[Royce]

+1

Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll.

The diaphragm on the rebuilt Midland is probably now more forward then when old. You need to re-adjust the plunger rod into the MC. If slightly forward then slight pressure to the calipers. The shop manual shows how to make a gauge to measure the Midland and adjust the rod.

[MercuryC00]

Also, the front tires don’t skid as in they’re locked up but the pads rub on the rotors enough so that when your foot is lifted off of the brake pedal while in drive (its an automatic) the car struggles to roll.

The diaphragm on the rebuilt Midland is probably now more forward then when old. You need to re-adjust the plunger rod into the MC. If slightly forward then slight pressure to the calipers. The shop manual shows how to make a gauge to measure the Midland and adjust the rod.

This is what I was afraid of, I really didn’t want to take the master off and bleed the brakes again just to adjust the rod. Ill give it a shot though, thanks.