Hey all,
Can I install 67 Mustang front disc brakes on a 67 base cougar without the power booster setup? I would be using all the non power stuff as is. I have placed a 10lb RPV at the rear brake lines.
Will this work?
Just from a mechanical stand point, I wouldn’t think you would get very good braking pressure on a disc brake system without the booster on a vehicle this heavy? I may be wrong… Only thing I’ve ever seen with disc and NO booster is a sand rail.
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While I was researching my brake solution, I seem to remember reading it being done by replacing the MC with one spec’d for the application. Different bore size and stroke on the pedal. If you call the guys at Wilwood, they will help you out.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx
Jumping in this kinda late, but FWIW:
Early seventies Mavericks/Comets were available with non-boosted front discs. When I converted my '69 to disc brakes, I used a master cylinder from one of those cars. Works perfectly. I don’t miss the power assist at all. Also made the conversion easier because it saved having to change to a power-brake style pedal. The original drum brake pedal assembly worked fine.
I’m installing non power disc on thr road race Cougar to have a better connected pedal feel. Using all Wilwood stuff. Six piston calipers up front and four piston rear. Master cyl with a 7/8 bore should make for a well connected pedal feel. Small dia master cyl bore = quicker pressure to the caliper and less pedal effort. Take into account what calipers you are running. Just have to size it to what kind of pedal feel you are looking for. If you go to small dia on the master your brakes will be to touchy. To large and they will feel spongy/slow response. Wilwood can help you with that.
I converted to the stock style 67 front disc brakes, but have manual non-power master cylinder. As said above, I think the master cylinder is the Maverick. And, I am totally happy with the function and “feel” of the brakes.
you can also use a pinto master , works great on mine
Thank you all for chiming in. I don’t care how late it is. I’m still trying to get answers. myhighschoolxr7 - what year would the Maverick be? I have just received the 67 non power MC.
What I know:
Power MC is a 1.25" shaft throw
Non Power shaft Throw is 1.00"
Both are 4.50" from the mounting surface to the center of the eye.
Both bores are 1.00" dia.
Power MC has a larger rear fluid reservoir than the front one.
Non power looks to have matching reservoirs.
The picture is not an optical illusion. Power(bottom) is clearly larger than the non power (top).
Can anyone tell me the difference in the reservoir reason? I thought I read about this somewhere but cant seem to find it. Hate when that happens!
The rear section of the MC is for the front brakes and the front section is for the rear brakes?
Go to mustang Steve’s website, forum. Those guys talk about this swap all the time and steve is extremely knowledgable in this field. I know the mc has to be changed, and you need the right pedal. The manual pedal has a different mounting position to change the geometry to make the pedal easier to push. If you use a power pedal, it will be harder to push.
Reservoir size in the master cylinder is unrelated to power or non-power brakes. It is related to drums vs. discs. Four wheel drum vehicles will have equally sized master cylinder chambers. Front disc/rear drum vehicles will have different sizes. Yes, rear chamber is for front brakes.
You didn’t ask me, but I’m pretty sure the Maverick/Comet MC I am using is from a '75, with a 15/16" bore. But any '74 - '77 should be the same. I tried a 1.25" MC, but the pedal was far too stiff. I had to stomp on the pedal so hard I could feel the firewall flex. Very happy with the 15/16" MC. But difference between 15/16" and 1" bores is probably not going to be significantly noticeable.
Ditto What cj750 said above. I bought my whole setup as a kit so it came with everything I needed to make the swap, but the master cylinder he references above is what you would want to get if your sourcing all of the parts separately on your own. You will not need to change your brake pedal if you are staying manual after converting to disc brakes, but if you decide to go power disc brakes, it is my understanding that you’ll have to change the pedal to get the proper geometry. As referenced above by blue68cat, mustang Steve’s website is a great resource. My whole swap kit came from the website http://www.discbrakeswap.com. I was and still am very happy with it.