I thought the toughest part was removing the old rope seal, but the problems just started - I can’t insert a new rubber seal! It goes in about 1 inch and stops. I can’t tap it in this position; everything is slippery with limited access.
I followed the repair manual and loosened the main cap bolts, but no use.
So, I see 4 options:
Loosen the main cap bolts more and actually lower the crankshaft. But the manual says not to exceed 1/32 (!) inch, which is barely noticeable. I don’t want to risk the bearings falling off.
Cut the upper half of the seal in half and insert it in pieces (I have two seals, so I can cut half from each without losing circumference). They will be short enough to let me tap them in. But that’s going to be a 3-piece seal instead of 2, and who knows how precisely I can cut.
I can grind the outer edge of the seal to make it smaller so it will fit. But again, it may leak after this.
Try to use a rope seal? But for some reason, the manual says that the original rope seal should be replaced with a split-lip seal.
Don’t do any of those options. The trick is compressing the lip seal so it will roll in and not catch in the block as you roll it in. Lay the seal on the open half of the crank and compress it to flatten the lip against the crank and then rotate the seal while keeping it compressed. Once in stop about 1/8”-1/4” shy of flush on both sides as you don’t want the cap and seal parting lines lined up. If this has never had a two piece seal, don’t forget to pop out the rope seal retaining pin or you’ll ruin the new seal. The pin should be in the cap half
Here it is. By the way, I have two seals: one made by Fel-pro, and one made by Mahle. And they are absolutely identical - it looks like they were made in the same factory in China.
I can’t tell from your install attempt photo, but the edge with the groove faces the inside of the engine. Any small pressure within the crankcase causes the seal to seal better.
So at the edge you are rotating into, you should be applying as much finger pressure as you can at the parting line you are pushing into. If that doesn’t work for you, I’m not sure what else to tell you.
Thank you, anyway!
I saw many videos on Youtube of how people easily pushed new seals in place. But it just doesn’t work for me. Maybe the grove was machined too rough. I have no idea what is happening.
My engine rebuilder had to replace a leaky rear main seal after the engine was installed. He did exactly what you are doing, although he did say he loosened the cap bolts to give the crankshaft some “float” to help get the new seal into place. Whatever he did worked out great - no oil drips at all!
