How do I remove the float bowl? I’ve forgotten it’s been a while.
Here is some cheap advice. I would have the carb gone through. The needle and seat in cheap kits is prone to leakage. It’s every worse with cars that are driven occasionally.
Forget Joe. This guy doesn’t just re-color the carb. He goes through, makes sure all the passages are spec.
Drew Pojedinec. It doesn’t get any better.
These are my BJ-BJ’s that no matter what I did ran rich. He’s on Facebook and both FE forums.
Here are my carbs on his vehicle before he returned them. He is super reasonable too.
If you have facebook you can contact him or I will provide you with his phone number.
-Keith
https://www.facebook.com/AirFuelSParkTech/videos/1231150237067129/
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Disconnect the fuel line and remove the bolts.
Disconnecting the fuel lines seems to be easier said than done. I got the one on the driver side off no problem. It was a pinch clamp, but the one on the passenger side is a different story.
How is the best way to loosen the threaded fuel line for the primaries that runs to the passenger side of the car? Seems to be cemented into place.
I’m so sorry, but I don’t follow. Who’s Joe/Drew? What’s a BJ-BJ? I’m not on Facebook.
Drew restores and rebuilds carbs. He does it from an engineering perceptive as well as originality. He documents OE specs and passage sizes. They are all checked during set up. He’s very reasonable too. I can put you in contact if you’d like. Bj-BK are the dual quads on 427 and 428 Shelby engines.
Sure. Is he local? See both you and Royce are here in the dfw area.
Disconnecting the fuel lines seems to be easier said than done. I got the one on the driver side off no problem. It was a pinch clamp, but the one on the passenger side is a different story.
How is the best way to loosen the threaded fuel line for the primaries that runs to the passenger side of the car? Seems to be cemented into place.
It shouldn’t be. Many use pipe sealer. ( I do) but it’s a liquid Teflon that shouldn’t make it difficult to remove. Some just think that over-tightening is the answer to assuring you don’t wind up with a leak. Then you probably will. I would use a bit of controlled penetrant on the threads and leave it over night. NOT WD40! PB Blaster or Freeze Off or an equivalent. Make sure you use LINE wrenches. Not a regular box-open or an adjustable wrench.
Right that’s how I do it. I always use plumbers tape. The person that worked on it before apparently used something else. I use PB blaster.
Takes two wrenches. A 1" wrench to hold the adapter and a 7/16" wrench to loosen the B - nut on the fuel line. Crescent wrenches are too big and clumsy, you need real ones.
Is this the correct carburetor rebuild kit? Car is R code with original Holley carburetor. Believe it’s a C9AF-9510-N
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-542b/applications/year/1969/make/mercury/model/cougar?prefilter=1
This carburetor has a fuel line that connects the primaries and secondaries. Is there a way to know whether the primaries or secondaries are the root cause?