Chassis Black Paint

Hey guys,
I have a question about chassis paint. The products I will be using are Nason. They are available at my local auto parts store and relatively affordable. The project which some may have seen is a 68 Mercury Monterey. With the frame, my plan is to blast away the rust coating to a clean white blasted steel. Then to spray it with a light to medium coat of Nason 491-17 Self Etch. After the etch flashes I will be covering it with 2 coats of 491-16 Epoxy primer. Then, within the cure window to topcoat with a semi-gloss black paint. My first thought and it seems kind obvious is to use Nason’s 492-01 Chassis Black.
In the past I have used that Nason epoxy primer----it is tough stuff. Best to topcoat with something sandable before it cures. The chassis black concerns me. Nason’s chassis black is a non-catalyst ready to spray paint. Is it any better than Rustoleum? I’d hate to go through so much work to top it off with the non-mix paint that doesn’t last. I wonder if I would be better off by using a single stage Urethane? If so, then the question becomes, how do I dull down the gloss? Also, being the Urethane is so hard, will it chip easily? Perhaps the Chassis paint is softer and won’t chip from impacts? I’m just overall concerned about the performance of a non-catalyzed paint.
Has anyone used Nason’s Chassis Black and can comment on it’s performance. If it is not that great, or just o-k, what would be a better chassis paint alternative for a restoration? I prefer to stick with a Nason paint since I am using their primers.


Hey Mark,

I’ve used some of the Nason products, but have no experience with the chassis black. I have used their non catalyst base/clear coat paint and reduce it with Dupont basemaker with good luck.

After doing some research last night I am less inclined to use the Nason Chassis Black. A friend of mine’s father used it on an AMC back in 09. I’ll have to ask him how it has worked out.

If you are trying to match the factory black. I use the PPG- DP90 epoxy prime and just leave it without a top coat. very tough stuff and holds up against chips and chemicals. I use it for the engine bay as well. I also use the DP70 for the red oxide. I did the underside of the Boss Mustang with DP90 black in 09 and still looks good. Granted, it doesn’t see bad weather, but have drove in the rain a few times.
Boss underside 2 029.jpg

A lot of information I’ve found on Nason’s Chassis Black was so-so. People that I’ve talked to that have used it said it’s o-k. What I’ve decide to do is use black single stage urethane with some flattening agent to get the right sheen. Quite a few people have mentioned the single stage urethane will be the best way to go.
Hey Brian, thanks for the replies. The black epoxy primer looks like a good method. I already have the Nason brand primers and paint in my possession, plus I’m not sure where to buy PPG around here.

I suggest you check the recoat window of the single stage urethane as adhesion of next coat may de difficult if uretahne is 100% cured, even with thourough sanding.

The SSU recommends 5-10 minutes flash between coats. By the time I reach the other end of the frame I will simply start over.

The sand blasting will quickly be followed by the primers and paint consecutively with the proper flash time for each on the same day. That is the best way do do it as they will bond together better than paint on a scuffed surface. I hate sanding.

Several years ago I bought some chassis paint (forget the manufacturer), turned out the paint was an asphalt based that never really cured.

I would buy a gallon of urethane “Hot Rod Black” which is cheap and tough

Same here. DP90LF I think.

Flash off time will depend on temperature, humidity, if you are painting in a paintbooth or in a garage.
Longer flash off time with high humidity, and if painting in a garage.
Test if flash off time is good enough by touching a spot with you finger, if it feels wet or really sticky, then wait longer before next coat, when the finger barely sticks to the paint, it`s ready for the next coat.

Shooting the second coat too early can result in various problems, like silky/hasy finish due to top closes to soon, and leaves thinner inside, and the paint will be wet inside, instead of curing totally.
Can also result in gassing, pinholes etc, due to thinner escaping trough nearly dried topcoat, and can also result in paint flaking off due to the paint is wet inside, and will not cure and bond to the surface good enough

I just finished blasting/priming/painting the engine bay. I used a PPG epoxy primer and a black paint flattened to an eggshell sheen. Turned out really good.

Hey, that came out nice, did you paint the A/C condensor also?