Would appreciate anyone pointing me to posts about the issue of the clutch pedal and brake pedal being at an offset to each other. From the searching I have done, and pictures I have seen there is going to be some. Also in working under my dash last night installing new plastic u-shaped “cushions” and a new pedal return spring I can see that there wouldn’t be a way for them to be even. With the clutch pedal against it’s rubber stop, and if the brake pedal came all the way back to it’s stop (the clutch pedal shaft) there is no way they would come into being even. A new rubber stop on the clutch pedal might be a little thicker than my old one, but I am guessing not much.
Right now my brake pedal hooked up to the booster shaft doesn’t come back to it’s stop position. I did do a brake swap from power front drum to disc, using the parts either from a 68, or other ford product line, I honestly don’t recall what car they came from. Just know they are the single piston type. I have a rebuilt Midland booster on it, with the right style push rod with the hole being offset to the shaft centerline, so when things hook up the shaft is going straight into the booster.
Also on a side note, I have removed the old turn signal unit in the trunk and upgraded it to the electronic box. When I apply pedal I get brake lights, but they cycle off after a second or two. I have one burnt out brake light bulb. Is it possible that all bulbs need to be good for it to work right, or should I be looking at a new brake light switch?
Thanks!
David
So I measure the offset of the face of the two pedal, and it is about 3inches. I have found pics over on the Concours Mustang forum that show the pedals, having some offset. Also someone there said that pedals were pretty much specific per model year. So to correct my problem should I be looking at a power brake pedal from a 67 model year cougar?
The brake pedals are year specific and also different between manual and power. I am not sure if the clutch pedals are different. When you did your changeover from power drum to power disc to you change the brake pedal? Or the power booster?
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
You might look here. https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html
Working of a 1967? As long as you didn’t use a 1970-73 disc brake pedal it should install and work with the proper brake booster push rod.
The brake booster push rod has a specific set point for length.
You did not need to change brake pedals, power drum and power disc are the same.
Brake light switch needs to be of the disc brake variety. A drum brake switch will not work with booster to trip the switch.
I beg to differ on the above quote, the brake light switch needs to be a power brake variety. A manual brake switch will not work with a booster to trip the switch.
I replaced my factory power drum brake system with a power front disc brake system on my 67 and did not have to change the pedals nor the brake switch. There are difference in both between Power and Manual brakes.
Note for drum to disc conversions, you will need to change your master cylinder.
Coach Jack
Scott,
So is 67 the last year they used the Midland boosters? I know back when I bought this one rebuilt from my local parts house I am pretty sure it came with the push rod in it. I ask because I am wondering if the pushrods are all the same length? I know they had put the wrong boot on it. It had a Bendix style boot on it just kinda flopping around on there. I had to get the proper Midland style. Wish now I would have saved the original tag attached to the clamp band bolt 
It is possible I have the wrong switch. I don’t know what got done there. I will have to do some research to be able to tell the difference. But the switch wouldn’t really change the pedal height, but are you saying it might be the answer to my other problem?
As far as the master cylinder, I got a knew one at the same time I got the booster. I know I would have gotten asked at the time if I had power brakes, and I would have said yes. Now weather it was asked specifically “power drum or disc” that I am not sure on. My master is this style one though https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2140-ar.html?attribs=75
I also can’t recall exactly as it was so many years ago now, but I did talk to somebody somewhere who convinced me that I needed to put a manual proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes, so I did. It is mounted near the accelerator rod pivot on the firewall. Whish I could recall what that was about.
It’s odd, even if I disconnect the push rod into the booster, and let the brake pedal come back against the clutch pedal mounting rod, I don’t think the pedals would be in align. I gotta try it to verify. I did look and my pedal has the notch scarfed in it for clearance like Mustang Steve shows on his site. It’s all functional. I just don’t know if it is going to be clumsy when I actually come to driving.
So just to ask, even with all the right matching parts are the pedals in line? Oh BTW, someone over on the Concourse Mustang site posted a nice chart that shows brake pedal height and travel measurements. If I am looking at it right I think I actually have the right height from towboard to pedal. They have listed pedal free height 5.61 to 4.60, and my pedal sits appr 4.75 off the steel.
Tomato / Toma-ato, my point was that a manual drum switch will not work. We have seen too many times that people with power drum brakes have tried to install a simple drum brake switch
NO again this is apples to oranges, a MANUAL switch will not work correctly with a POWER brake setup. There is nothing different between the disc and drum switches.
Coach Jack