Rebuilding front end of 1973 convertible. Compressed spring but tool became partly dislodged after I tapped spring to rotate it into perch. It is now held by 3 hooks on the compresser but appears seated properly. I’m not sure if I’m home free or have a bomb on my hands.
I’ve thought of using screw jacks and a cross brace to hold upper control arm stedy while I reattach the spindle, strut and sway bar. Then I can use a jack under lower control arm to finish up.
Can the spring let go in this position? I don;t want to get seriously injured here. Any advice would be appreciated. Photos attached.
The bottom picture shows the spring sitting on the perch and the spring appears to have very little tension on it.
I would suggest you lean over the radiator and with your wrench and go ahead and loosen that compressor. If the spring is on the perch it’s probably seated properly into the upper insulator. Do not be on the outside of the wheel well while doing this.
Are you scared of doing this? No problem as working in this situation can be dangerous. If need be, find someone to help you. Have a helper loosen the compressor and if you need to position that spring wear heavy gloves, a heavy jacket and a full face safety shield. Furthermore you can take a chain, work it into the coil, then out of it, and secure the two ends with a grade 8 nut, bolt and washers. If that coil comes apart the chain will hold it to prevent it from springing loose. But, again, it appears there’s very little tension on that spring.
Thanks, Cyclone Lou. You were correct: The tension was off and the spring seats on the upper control arm. I’ll heed your advice and place a safety chain and stay out of the way as much as possible. It was not a smooth install, but I guess I got it after all.
At least on the 1973, the upper control arm rests on the frame notch and if the spring is safely seated, the compresser can be removed.
The balance of the install went smoothly. Didn’t need to compress spring (via jack under lower control arm) until shock installation. If you’re doing this yourself, please read Cyclonelou’s post above and pay attention to his safety recommendations. And one thing further, never hammer on a compressed spring!
This is the type of spring compresser you want for this job. It fits inside the spring when the shock is removed and you are away from the spring when it’s being compressed. By trial and error, I found that a 3 1/2 length of iron pipe gives enough room to compress without bottoming out on the spring perch too soon.
