Color of various engine parts

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Paint and Body
1

I have the engine repainted and ready to go back into the car. I need some hints on finish of some of the additional engine pieces. I am dealing with a 428 CJ/4-speed car. I have painted the long-block in Duplicolor #1606 (Dark Ford Blue).



  1. Is the distributor hold down bolt and clamp painted blue?

  2. Is the throttle cable mounting plate (top rear of driver side intake manifold) painted?

  3. What color is the dipstick handle? I have the tube and bracket painted blue already.

  4. Were the valve cover bolts painted blue on cast aluminum valve covers or were they natural steel?

  5. Is the water pump painted blue?

  6. Is this topic treated elsewhere? My apologies, if so.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck

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3

The distributor bolt is zinc. The hold down clamp is phosphate and oil.

4
5

Not often in this hobby is there an easy button but in this case there is :wink:

https://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/cobrajet_engine_detail_v1.3.pdf

6

Sure there are more details (there always is) that could be added but a great place to start

7

Good call, Jeff! I forgot about that >.<

8

Wow, Anghel Restorations is just a few miles east of me in Scottsdale. I may have to go visiting!

Thanks a ton for the info,
Chuck

9

Marcus is a great guy. Shares a ton of his knowledge in articles like that posted on the Concours Mustang forum and elsewhere. He also usually hosts an open house even in January during the auction weeks.

10

Here’s a variation on the thread theme.

How do I get that fresh “cast” look on the aluminum valve covers? They are reasonably clean but don’t look like they did when they were newer.

Chuck

11

I had good luck grit blasting my aluminum alternator case, and then lightly going over it with fine steel wool so the finish wasn’t so flat. Seems it might work on the valve covers too?

12

I foujnd some youtube techniques for getting aluminum back in shape. It seems to be working fairly well for, so far.

13

If you want to get an original look try and stay away from most forms of blasting it will change the surface and you won’t be able to get it back. Some used soaps and allot of scrubbing or start with a carb cleaner bath, soap bath/scrub and finish with a light aluminum acid remembering to keep the while surface wet all the time. Bright edges can be addressed after all is done though that may need a wash to remove the aluminum dust. No easy button but there rarely is

If you go the route using ANY grit you’ll want to disassemble the valve covers and flush out all the grit or you’ll be sorry. Way too many examples of this in the baffle, spring dripers or on intakes under the heat shield

You may be looking for a dull fresh cast look rather than the shiny finish found on some later NOS/service replacements

Latest thing as been vapor blasting but some of the same issues. Have not tried it yet so can’t speak as to how well it replicates the original look of freshly cast

14

My friend Tim O’Connor uses walnut shell media to blast distributor housings. It makes them look like new. I am betting the same treatment would work on the 428CJ / SCJ cast valve covers. Afterwards you have to take any blasted engine parts to the car wash and use high pressure water to clean them.