Hi,
I’ve searched for the topic, but haven’t found a thread.
I’m thinking of replacing the vinyl replacement top on my car, it has wear tears on the driver side and the trim around the vinyl window is torn. The vinyl looks fairly New, although the pads and inside stuff is original. I Also have the original fold window. So some questions:
I assume the frame is out of alignment causing the damage. Any Helpful hints to trueing it up once the skin is off.
If I do it, I want to do it with 1969 material look, as opposed to the existing top. Can I assume the material around the original glass is the right type of material?
I tried doing mine - even bought a cordless electric stapler. Gave up and used my wallet tool instead.
Robbins brand tops are considered the top of the line. The EZ-On brand is good too. If you decide to hire the installation, check to make sure they will use parts you bring, as some won’t.
It’s really not that hard to do. It just takes patience and perseverance. The electric stapler just doesn’t have enough umph to bury the staples for this. Air stapler is the only way to go.
I did mine after watching the WCCC video several times. That video is awesome!
Make sure you center the slit in the top above the rear window on the rear bow as it gets hidden/covered by the welt cord that is stapled across that bow and folded over to hide those staples. (I am slightly off on mine and it has bugged me for several years)
I will be re-doing mine in the near future because my rear window seam split on me a while ago.
WCCC has two convertible top videos, one on a 69 and the second one is on my 71. After doing the video and spending three days with the guys doing my top I have several thoughts. One I do believe I would not do it myself, I have no patience at all, none. I have talked with others who did and said they had no problems, just take your time! The mechanics of doing it is not that hard I agree, but being somewhat of a perfectionist I’m glad mine was the one we did a video on. Another thing to consider is cost, while I did the research on cost, I was a little surprised by some of the hidden costs. Installation was quoted and then because of the video I was asked to leave the top on that would be removed, extra labor charge for removal, and there was the additional time for the video which I understood. I’m not complaining just understand the costs. I also choose the tan canvas top from Ez Top, be advised the canvas tops are thicker and will not set down in the well like the vinyl does thus making the install of the boot extremely difficult! Also the canvas will show any wear spot super fast, maybe the black would have been a better choice. Also when I had the vinyl top I could put it down without unzipping the window just like the owner manual says, not so with the new canvas top. All in all the top is beautiful, doesn’t leak, is much quieter and I love it. So if you have patience, the right tools, go for it!
The current vinyl doesn’t sit deep in the boot, so the canvas Taking more space call out is a really good one. I assume the original canvas fit just fine…so that leads me back to the frame. Or… weakened hydraulic motor?
I have a friend who does boat covers who is willing to help. His concern is the frame and realigning that, any feedback there helps.
Do some googling and see if you can find a .pdf copy of the “how-to” manual written back in 2009 by a guy named Richard Smykay. He showed the complete process including frame alignment for a 68 mustang top and I recall that the book was extremely thorough about every detail.
The top fabric is same for Mustang and Cougar - but the rear bow is set lower/more aft on the Cougar. The top fabric will have two alignment lines - one for Mustang and one for Cougar.
I don’t recall that the frame has any adjustment points, other than where it attaches to the car body. There is a section in the shop manual on replacing the top that might prove otherwise. I recall that it includes a template for setting the position of the rear bow. I would speculate that if you’re getting uneven wear that the fabric was misaligned rather than the frame. It could be worn or loose bushings, and you might be able to tighten those at the joints.
The original tops were vinyl, not canvas.
Your top motor may be low on fluid (type F ATF) if it makes noise a second or two before the top starts moving. I don’t think a weak pump would cause any misalignment, just slower movement.
I recommend getting new hydraulic lines for the pump to the cylinders. The 50 year old ones get brittle and can burst if too much pressure. They are reproduced, or at least were when mine burst 5 or so years ago. New cylinders are available too if your leak.
If one of the cylinders that raises/lowers the top is leaking (can be internal with no visible sign), then the top will get crooked when going up & down, with one side moving slower than the other. I think it would take a lot of up & down to show any uneven wear, but something to check.
Also, if you are running the pump trying to get the top further down (or manually pushing), that’s the kind of thing that increases pressure on the hydraulic lines.
Mr.Eos,
Thanks for that! It was the potential to be tweaking adjustments Around the frame that had me fretting. Visions of tearing the new material danced in my head.
The pump had given out and the well was full of fluid when it first came out of abandonment, so that part of the project is done and fairly new.
I’m surprised it was originally vinyl, seems like the window is stitched in canvas.
Yorgle,
I found the docs by Richard Smykay… Thanks! BTW, It appears he may have passed away a few years ago.
