I have a 1968 cougar 302 automatic with manual brakes which I want to convert to power brakes. I was informed that I need to change the pedal hanger since the pivot point is different than manual brakes along with the brake pedal itself. I just wanted someone else’s advise on this. can I use the existing pedal hanger or do I need to make modifications to it as drilling new holes. Also which power booster is best to use, the original type like midland or cordone dual diaphram or the single diaphram 9" booster. I also notice the older type booster has with or without the band. please explain the difference.
I’m in the midst of doing this myself on my 68, which came with manual drums. I’m using the power disc brake stuff from a 1970 Cougar parts car (the 70 stuff is good because it’s a simpler and heavier-duty setup). You need to keep your pedal hanger and drill holes through the upper corner for the longer pedal. You also need to remove 3 of the 4 threaded fittings on the flat section that mounts to the firewall. See the pic below and compare to your hanger:
Or, of course, you can just buy a used 67/68 power brake pedal hanger and call it a day. But it’s easy enough to modify your existing manual brake one. You will need the longer pedal though, obviously. For the holes, I’m probably going to make a template / diagram for people doing the swap to see where they go. Will post here when it’s done.
If using used parts for your conversion, make sure it’s all from the same year. You may run into issues if you start to mix and match. For instance, I’m using all 1970 stuff from the same car. I’ll need to change my outer tie rods to the bigger ones but that’s about it.
Much of it will have to be rebuilt or replaced, but I got a pretty good deal Besides, in order to buy rebuilt stuff you need to have cores.
You’ll also need to modify your firewall, but the good news is, your car has built-in “templates” for the holes you need. First one is a round hole directly under the large center hole. This is for the bottom stud on the booster. You can see the template from the engine compartment side. The other modification is to the large center hole, and you can see the template / indentation from inside the car. You basically need to extend that hole upwards. Here’s the end result on my car (didn’t take a “before pic”)
I’m making a video about the swap as I’m doing it. Hopefully I’ll have that done before too long, but I’m waiting until it’s all assembled and on the car so I can do a “finished” shot & conclusion. Anyways hope that helps & good luck!
here’s pic of my 68 i’m wanting to install power brakes. it has the original paint, motor and tranny . haven’t started the brake conversion yet. I want to get all the parts and try to do in 1 or 2 days. thinking about documenting this conversion so i may help others who wish to do this.
Mike, That is a really good looking car, Im assuming that it is Lime frost green, since you said it is original? On my monitor it looks a little darker, but sets off the lines well.
I have a very early 67 mustang and there is no template/factory/indentation line to go by looking from inside the car. I saw the video on CCC and i thought that was a great and an easy job to do…until I saw…there is no reference line. Do you have a template or know where I can get a template to modify my firewall?
Thanks,
BC
We are experimenting in the set up sold by Mustang Steve’s on my sons car. The kit we bought uses 2010 Mustang GT disc brakes on all 4 corners. I am not after originality with this car and I thought that the replacement parts would be available long after I am. If you are interested in learning more, send me an email, I should be working on this over the next couple of weeks as work travel permits.
Besides, in order to buy rebuilt stuff you need to have cores.
