It will work. But it is a 68/69 unit. That metal elbow tube on the front is not correct. Yours would have a plastic one held in place with a rubber gromet. Sorry, no picture at this time.
Bummer- I don’t remember where this came from, and was hoping it was from a 70 I parted out years ago. Would this then be correct for like a Torino? Or just any full size Ford-
Here is the correct 70 351C air cleaner with clip-in place PVC filter. Also note it has the vacuum switch for the snorkel air damper. Intake air gets pulled across the exhaust manifold when cold.
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Perfect, thanks very much for posting that !
Now I have a much better idea on what I am searching for-
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Oh, and the 1970 California emission cars had a knock-out on the passenger side where this additional plastic nipple installed for the charcoal canister vent.
Hi Calicat, thanks so much for posting this. I presume that the PVC crankcase filter must always face upwards. What happens if it were facing down (like mine has been all these years, lol)? Does that mean less air gets through?
Regards and thanks
John
It normally was installed facing upwards, but I can’t imagine it would make that much difference if it faced downwards. Air is drawn into the crankcase through that filter.
Would love to see more pics of that engine compartment.
With Edelbrock carb, manifold, and heads; MSD distributor and roller cam I’ve strayed far, but I’d like to try the look as close to stock as possible.
Hi, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Have had ongoing trouble with leaking engine seals even after a complete rebuild, so will turn mine upside-down and see if it improves air flow to slow the oil leaks.
Cheers and all the best
John
Shouldn’t affect the oil leaks. I had a leaky rear main seal after a rebuild too. My mechanic was able to pull the oil pan and replace it from underneath without pulling the engine again. It’s nice to finally not have oil drips on the garage floor!
Was the replacement rear main seal asbestos rope? My guy replaced it with rubber lips instead and it has leaked worse than before the engine was rebuilt.
Here is an engine bay overview. Brake booster and master cylinder are not original, neither is the air cleaner snorkel vacuum motor, or the water pump. The radiator and fan were upgraded to the ones used in AC cars, and the CAUTION FAN sticker was not originally present in 70. Otherwise everything is pretty much like it was originally.
Hi Calicat, this evening I drove the rings out of it down the freeway and hard on the back roads too. Previously if I did this with the crankcase filter facing the old way the PCV valve would eventually work its way out of the grommet.
Tonight it didn’t even look like doing this. So obviously it makes a difference - I hope the reduced crankcase pressure reduces the oil leaks a little! Many thanks again, John.
Funny you mention running the rings out of it, because that’s pretty much what it would take to blow the PCV valve out of the grommet 
Your PCV system holds a vacuum on the crankcase if it’s working properly, and sounds like it is now! Enjoy those drives!
Thank you! It’s far from perfect, but the engine did get a refresh 5 yrs ago. My goal is to keep the car looking like a well-maintained example in the mid 70’s with 65000 miles on the odometer - since that is its mileage. If everything was perfect, I wouldn’t enjoy driving it.
Hi Woodsnake, I think I have an air cleaner base and snorkel like Calicats… Im no expert and don’t know if its from one of my 70s cougars that I usta have, but I’m sure someone here looking can help with identifying it for us. If you want it I would sell it.
Dan in Calif. 65oh-704-476five
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Yup! Thats looks to be the correct one for a 70 351C. It has the knock-out removed for the charcoal canister hose nipple that was used on CA emissions cars.