What is the correct voltage regulator for the 427 GT-E: the C8AF with silver label or the C8TF with yellow label? Are the repro regulators reliable or should I be using a modern regulator with a repro cover- this is what WCCC suggests on the website.
Modern with a repo cover. Sorry but the repos will leave you on the side of the road. Basicly you pay for the cover when you buy one.
Sad. Are the Shelby electronic repos any better? Not that I have purchased but so far just a voltage regulator. Same junk.
the repro regulators come unadjusted - they can either fry the battery or not charge enough. Big trouble if you don’t know how to adjust one.
Here’s a link to a previous discussion:
Thanks Royce, I never knew that. Maybe if I read the instructions?
So far the most trouble I have had with bad parts has been all ignition. Bad dist, bad points, bad condenser. I remember back in the day I would use nothing but Blue streak points. I did get a new not rebuilt elec. Ford dizzy for the Cleveland but havent switched it yet. One nice day soon. Any tips or anything to look out for on that?
Reading back, Sorry for the thread drift. Royce can answer that question correctly. Send him a pm if he doesnt chime back in.
Regarding what would be the correct VR for Mike’s car, wouldn’t it depend on what the amps are for the alternator? Here’s a thread that Mike started asking what is the correct alternator for his car since the original was replaced and Royce replied that C6AF-10300-C,a 42 amp is the correct one https://cccforum.discoursehosting.net/t/correct-alternator-for-68-gte/3769/1 So,if that’s correct, looking in my Electrical Assembly Manual on page 8, it lists C8AF-10316-A for the VR , then in parenthesis shows 42 AMP, C8TF-10316-A shows 55 AMP. Mike, which ever one you end up using, I would also get the repro cover and use on a modern VR (I’m also going to do that). John
That saved me some trouble and some wasted dollars!