Maybe this is part of the problem-
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Missing a wire nut.
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Needs better than a wire nut if it’s going to last. Either a good crimped butt connector (with a good crimping tool) or I’ve had good luck with the heat shrink solder seal connectors (limited to stranded wire or very clean solid wire). The white wire connector looks questionable too.
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Need more information. Is this a tach car? What’s the voltage to the disconnected + coil lead when key is in the RUN position? When did it start to have this problem? Can you jumper the battery to the + side of the coil and get the car to start?
It looks like someone has already been into the underdash harness…who knows what else has been done, but forgive me for saying it, that work was not well done.
I appreciate the comments, it was kind of a tongue in cheek question. I just need time to get in with my connector tool, and try to repair the wire. The car will start if I short the solenoid. I thought I had time to replace the switch before work yesterday, and then saw this. I am booked this weekend, and so it will have to wait. I swear, if it isn’t one thing, it is absolutely another!
So, not to start another thread, but what are the options for both a “good” wire crimping tool, and bulk connectors? What is better than the old fashioned crimp connector? I pulled the cluster out, and put a crimp connector on the wire in the picture, and then another wire that was just pushed into the back of the switch, fell out. I had no idea that the wiring was as bad as it is. But, regarding connectors, there has to be a more cost effective solution that the 20 dollar mixed pack Dorman solutions at the local parts store-
red/yellow is almost always a RUN-only line, but is never connected to the ignition switch. It hooks to the red/green or green/red wire (which itself mates with the pink resistor wire at the ignition switch) somewhere else: the tach plug, dash cluster are the two most likely suspects.
Solder the connection and cover with heat shrink tubing.
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What model year is it? Does it have a factory tach. The WCCC website has free wiring diagrams that identify wire colors.
A crimping tool similar to this is my suggestion. I have no specific brand recommendations but it’s the only one I recognized on Amazon.
It is a standard 1968 with out a factory tach-
I will look for those crimpers, I just have the common parts store crappy ones.
Where can you get bulk pricing, on connectors and terminal ends for our era of cars?
Thanks for that-
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If you forget about the crap you pictured and start with the basics, that may help you troubleshoot and find if that’s the problem.
Jumper from the battery 12V direct to the coil (like when a cold start - don’t need to run that way but you’ve verify that you have spark).
Remove a spark plug wire and crank it with a screwdriver in the plug boot near ground. Spark jumping? If no - your photo wiring may have nothing to to with the problem. Check your coil ground - if good - swap your coil with another.
If yes (spark when cranking), then pour perhaps 3-4 ounces of gasoline down the carb throat and crank it with the key. If it fires, then you have most of the fundamentals.
From there you can chase your wiring and determine if that connector is on the right circuit or not.
I haven’t had time to get back on this particular headache- I appreciate all the input- I hate working all the overtime, (56 hours, plus commute-) but it sure makes paying the bills easier!
I feel your pain. I drove my '70 into the garage a month ago running like a top. Tried to start it a week ago and just endless cranking. Long story short I did all the usual tests and finally tracked down a stuck float needle valve gummed up with ethanol crud gas. Flooded the heck out of it trying to start it that way so also fouled the plugs. Oh well, got to verify the pertronix, coil, rotor, cap, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, and put in new plugs so at least I exercised my brain a bit.