1967 cougar 289
4 wheel manual drums
I found a full kit to convert to power front disc for a reasonable price but it’s for a ‘67-‘70 mustang.
Mustang and Cougar 1968 disc brakes and wheels are interchangeable.
My car is a 67. So a 67-70 mustang brake kit same on a 67 also?
Thanks
Mark
I believe the ‘67 wheels won’t fit over ‘68 calipers because they changed caliper style and wheel size from 1967 to 1968.
Not sure about ‘69 and ‘70 but I believe they are similar to ‘68. There’s a really good WCCC video on YouTube about disc brake swaps.
Depends on which kit you buy. Some of the kits use 1968 - 73 style single piston calipers. With those kits to convert from drum to disc you must also change the spindle, which did change in 1969 (some cars) and 1970 (all cars) to get bigger ball ends on the steering.
Other kits use 1967 style 4 piston calipers to make it easier to swap. The 1967 style calipers bolt to the drum brake spindle, simplifying the swap considerably.
Other kits like Wilwood for example use 6 piston calipers that bolt to the stock drum brake spindle.
Like Steve said the single piston calipers interfere with 1967 stock wheels.
Thanks for all the good info. I just want to be certain everything will work before pulling the trigger. I have the upper/lower cowl off along with the windshield so nows the time since everything is wide open.
Wheel question
Again, ALL 1968 Mustang / Cougar wheels work with either disc or drum brakes.
In your photo you show what appears to be a 1967 Cougar styled steel wheel. That wheel will not fit single piston calipers.
Oh Geeze. Plenty to try to sort out I guess.
Now I need to figure out if they are ‘67 or ‘68. Ia there stamping on the wheel or measuments that would tell me?
Seller was old Timer gear head Said he pulled them off his ‘68 mustang?
Mark
Easy way would be to try one of those wheels on a 68 - 73 Mustang / Cougar / Comet / Fairlane with front disc brakes. If you have one with no tire the 1968 and later wheels are at least 6" inside the rim. 1967 wheels are 5 1/2".
If the car didn’t come with front discs from the factory, I believe you will also have to swap out the brake master cylinder for one that is designed for a front disc setup (not sure if that is part of the conversion kit or not). On cars with drums all around the reservoirs for the front/rear are the same size, but disc brake equipped cars have master cylinders with a larger reservoir for the front discs compared to the rear drums. The brake proportioning valve might also need to be changed out, but I have less experience with those so I can’t say for sure.
There is no proportioning valve on drum / drum cars.
Thanks for all the great info. Yes I’m aware I have to change the master and of course add the booster and prop valve. I was more worried on fitment. I ordered a full kit with pedal, master, etc and works with the drum spindles.
Again thanks for all the info.
Great board here!
Mark
I installed one of the “reasonably” priced disc brake conversion kits in my 68 several years ago. Couple of issues that I had were that the brake pedal needed to be ground down at the top as it hit on mounting so it wouldn’t return properly and kit seller failed to advise the disc brake setup required a different brake light switch. Typical BS with offshore parts that kind of fit. Looking back I wish I had spent more as I’ve already replaced the brake booster (which leaked from the beginning) and the master cylinder that also failed quickly. I put a factory Bendix booster that I rebuilt along with a better quality MC- brakes work good now.
Mark, Good job with the cowl removal, one question, what is the yellow wire for, some kind of ground?
Mark, Good job with the cowl removal, one question, what is the yellow wire for, some kind of ground?
Yes that was a temp ground. Previous owner installed a new fuse block and hacked it in with wire nuts and only left 1” coming out of the block. I cut all that out and soldered new wires to back of fuse block. Amazing how much easier things are to get do with the cowl off. Anyway. Had to clean that up and then in testing turn signals and such found they we’re acting up from the weak ground after fender extension to cowl was removed.
This was just a temp jumper.
