I am in the reassembly phase of a complete restoration. When I close the door the lock/unlock rod simple falls and the door locks automatically. The key unlocks it… and then if I shut the door again the door locks again. I can pull up on the rod and it unlocks, but again when I shut the door the rod falls and locks.
Everything else on the door latch works flawlessly and smooth.
have a tinker with all the rods from the inner handle to the door mechanism and adjust the linkages so theres some resistance to allowing the inner lock knob to fall.
Well both sides work flawlessly except when you close the door with any force the locking rod falls. I can pull it up with very little resistance, the door opens and when I close it the rod falls again. The door does latch and lock just fine. The key locks and unlocks both doors.
I took my broken spring to the local Ace Hardware. Found one that was much longer. Straightened some coils, cut it to length and installed it. Cost less than $2. Here’s a picture of the bag.
It’s the one that was broken in my latch. Ace has a multitude of different springs, I suggest you take a good one with you and match it up the best you can. If that fails, you can use any spring from Ace that is similar wire diameter to fabricate what you need.
I took the passenger side out yesterday. Got it on the bench. The rod that controls the up and down door lock has no spring on it. I have searched the web a bunch of times and have seen a few glimpses of a little spring or spring clip but nothing 100% for sure. So frustrating because everything else is working perfectly on that latch.
Which Phillips stubby socket does one use to get a FIRM grip on the screws used to fasten the lock mechanism to the door post ? The one I have isn’t ‘blunt’ enough to seat properly and deep enough into the screw, so I’m not able to get a good grip on it, and thus remove it.
Thanks for your help on this one !
Your issue is common to my drivers. As far as I recall, there is a similar thread on this forum. You should check if the door has the feature of a classroom lock. You turn the key all-around to the left or right and then come back to the center. In this way, you will deactivate locking from the outside. If it doesn’t work, then ask the workers from the locksmith in e12 to replace the lock with a classroom lock.
It is not a Phillips head socket. The Concours Mustang forum had a discussion of this several years ago, and I don’t remember the name of the tool one uses…sorry.