Electric headlight conversion review

Has anyone tried this brand electric eyelid conversion kits?
Thanks
Mark
https://www.dicksterssmartpants.com/store/mercury.html

A vacuum motor can have a throw that can’t be duplicated by linear actuators. I’d like to see a picture of exactly what they are offering

I know one of the board members here used a linear actuator on a 69 Cougar. I’m not sure if the same setup would work on a 67/68 Cougar. The speed looks really good.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9tsjM3mkrs

Steven

This was posted here a while ago.

Heck of a lot cheaper.

https://kvicksilverpuman.blogspot.com/p/how-to.html

That’s fairly large markup on price. The 2 actuators cost $55 a pair and you could use any simple SPDT relay for $3, a couple of bolts, some pipe or tubing on the bottom of the motors…and have a non-adjustable kit. Meaning, the only way to try to align the headlight doors is by where you drill the hole for the actuator.
There might also be some issues with the high/low dimmer, if not done correctly. With improved electronics it could be better. I think they through something together that worked for their car, but every car?

This supplier has set ups for vettes, RS Camaros, T birds. Etc.
where would you get the actuators? And has anyone come up with a DIY conversion that works well. I agree is expensive but the other supplier charges $700 and they are out of stock.
Thanks
Mark

The one Mike posted looks pretty easy to do.

WCCC might have some.

Here is another diy write up that may give you some ideas if wanting to tackle building your own kit. Looks like a fun project

http://fnc.ch/?page=275&fbclid=IwAR2gTskBMsORZGQeDvmgN2DhyUE0qGsDw_7ehdzBV2Onu65OekNMK6dQpdI

I still need to address this on my car. I simply removed the vacuum actuators for now, I’m not driving the car regularly yet but will be getting registered this month and of the odd chance I get caught out after dark I’ll open the doors manually until I get to buying or building a kit.

That write up was done by Bruce Hible if memory serves me correct. It along with other great information was posted on The Classic Cougar Network website before it went defunct.

Steven

I used Bruce’s write up to build mine about 8 years ago. It has worked very well for me.
I used a ‘93 probe motor from Rock Auto and some heim type end links on an adjustable rod.
No regrets and no issues.

I got the WCCC electric motor setup, and it works great, but really fast up/down. Is there an inline resistor or whatever be installed to slow it down a touch?


I found this on my IPad. In case it wasn’t clear on that blog.

Adjusting the speed of a DC motor can be done using a technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).
PWM turns power on/off in short pulses. This is better than a resistor because it is more efficient -
a resistor just dissipates the unused power into heat.

An adaptive controller would be better: it would start out fast and then slow down before it hit the stops,
thus avoiding slamming the door against the stops. I am developing such a controller.

I would definitely be interested, when that hits the market!

An adaptive controller is nice. I have one developed that fits in the palm of my hand, with necessary control for motors, extra input etc, but it’s not feasible for the probe / Miata motors. Currently, I’m not sure where it’s goin to be used I really don’t like linear actuators, reminds me of the big satellite dishes people had in the 80s/ 90 s for tv. And, they are noisy.
The next version of headlight kits will be simpler in design than before and have a slow opening closing with factory style connection rod. It will easily outperform linear actuators and other headlight motors. Timeline TBD. 69/70 cougars will be first, then 67/68, t-birds, Galaxies, Torinos/Cyclones/Rancheros, Lincolns, GTOs

Just FYI, to adjust the speed on any probe/Miata motors, your motor must have 2 wires leaving the motor hosing going to the plastic housing.

Interesting, can you explain that one?

The motor cannot be frame grounded. The ground is the side that is pulsed to slow the speed. Some PWM use the positive side…I recommend staying away from them or the super cheap china pieces. ~ $10 or less.

Ahhh, I see now. thanks! I love learning new stuff.