Hello All!
Getting ready to mount a repro Eliminator scoop on my 67.
Reading online the distance from the back of the hood to the rear of the scoop is approximately 2"
Any tips or tricks?
Are there hazards I should be aware of?
I don’t want to screw up an otherwise reasonably good hood. 
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
Brian
If you have a nice rust free original hood you might want to find one that has already been cut up. They do make reproduction hoods now so it’s not as big a deal as it once was. Given that, there is no right place for the Eliminator scoop. And unless you go all in to seal the base of the air cleaner to the under side of the hood, you won’t actually get any benefit from the scoop. So just pick the spot where it looks the best and where it most closely matches the profile of the hood. Once you pick the spot you will need to do some sanding to match the two contours. The scoops do look good on the '67 and '68 so I am not trying to talk you out of it.
Appreciate the reply xr7g428. I figured the scoop would need to be fitted to the hood. It is more for looks than functionality. The previous owner had dimpled the hood a little with to much air cleaner stud. I didn’t help it any when I switched to the Holley Sniper Stealth with a 1/2" spacer. After a few spirited drives I realized that one of the motor mounts was broken and the hood “dimple” was now much worse. Adding the scoop will help to camouflage the damage. Changing to a different hood is probably out of the question as the 30 year old enamel paint would be impossible to match. Plans are to paint the scoop and the power bulge a color that matches the interior somewhat.
Thanks, Brian.
That’s outstanding!
Thank you!
Make sure and put holes big enough to get a socket on the scoop’s hold down nuts. Some holes will be in the reenforcing ribs of the hood.
That is a great tip!
Yours looks great. 
The 66 looks pretty good too!
Thank you, Brian
One thing I did notice when you buy a “replacement” scoop is the studs for it. Replacement ones don’t have the built in washer stops on the top of the hood side. So it’s easy on the newer scoops to tighten them to much and pull the studs out of the fiberglass. I have both types since I have a 72 Comet GT now. Funny how it has a C9 part number which is the same for Cougars.
I had trouble finding a good front spoiler. Then I seen a picture of what another guy had on his 68. It’s a 69 Camaro one. Fits pretty close to. even without the braces.
The Stang is hers. Bench seat. 1 of only 15,000 made in 66. And they made a butt load of Stangs. Even ones with bench seats had them removed by dealerships. Cougars had the bench seats.
Thanks for the heads up on the bolts. I will be sure and put a spacer or something on them to help avoid over tightening.
Love the Comet by the way! It looks pretty solid.
My 67 is a bench seat car as well. One of 7400 made in 67. 
Love the bench seat!
Of note to others:
The hole cutout in the hood for factory ram air is not a circle, it kinda looks like a squashed jelly bean 
Keep in mind he seal is round so you want to stay inside the seal with that jelly bean.
Here is my son’s 1968 (same as a 1967 right?) - we wanted the 1968 428 CJ look. The scoop is a 1969 original, and fits just fine.
That looks great! Exactly the same look I am going for. 
