I have a 1968 base with a 302 and a 4 speed.
I need to replace the equalizer bar.
Can this be done without removing the steering gear box?
Not familiar with the term. You can replace either the sway bar or the tie rod without removing the steering box. You will have to have a puller to remove the tie rod end on the steering box. They are about $30 from Harbor Freight.
The equalizer bar is also known as a “z bar” and is what connects the clutch pedal to the clutch lever at the bell housing. 68 small block z bar
On my 390 I had to remove the brake master and booster and the steering column to get enough room to access the clutch linkage and equalizer bar.
I don’t think you will need to remove the steering gear box.
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It is also called the z bar. It connects the cluthc peddle linkage rod to the rod that engages the clutch fork
The Z bar has a bracket with two bolts into the frame. Removing those two bolts allows it to be removed. Look in the shop manual. You need one.
You’ll also want to replace the bushings, seals and clips for the equalizer bar. Check your upper and lower clutch pushrods for wear.
I’ll attach the sections of the 68 shop manual that deals with the equalizer bar replacement. Forel Publishing has the manual in PDF format for $17, or you can get a print copy from Rock Auto by Detroit Iron for $30. I don’t recommend David Graham Auto Literature due to the giant watermarks they use. Either way, a wise investment.
The answer to your question is YES…like any task …the correct tool for the job…will determine level of difficulty…do you have a high quality angle head ractcheting box wrench ? You do ! Job will be EZ…! You dont …you likely wil throw a wrench or two before its swapped out. Best advice take the original to a shop…weld up the elongated hole for the linkage…press in an oilite bushing…and send the chineesium part back to whence it came
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BooYah! THis is the doapest help I could have ever expected.
I am going to get the angle box end wrenches, this makes total sense now.
OK I got the replacement part figured out I think. But…
Look at these pictures of the old bar and the new bar. One is not like the other.
How screwed am I? I know sometimes manufactures have a few changes, that still work, just curious if anyone has seen this before.
Niether really look like the WCCC option.
1968 base model 302 with 4 speed
I am assuming the mangled one is the old one. Maybe this is why you needed to replace it? Does the new one fit?
Here is an NOS piece on ebay. Don’t know to what extent it differs from assembly line but this should be the shape you want.
Yea cut the old one out
Old one is definitely not like the OEM now I have seen several examples
Onward
Man I want this done soon
Well I have learned a lot lately.
My x bar likely did not need to be replaced. Because there are headers installed whom ever installed those had to modify the z bar for it to fit, as well as bang in a few of the header pipes. Know I know why they did that, I was always curious.
Another odd realization is that the stud that is in the engine for the x bar pivot appears to have its centerline equal with the car frame, making the Z bar forced to an angle when inserted into the frame bracket. Know I know why the z bar was crooked. I have not actually been able to get any of it to fit together.
I have banged with a hammer on the z bar for a while and got very little movement
So tomorrow I’m going to have one of the welders at work heat it up and put a bend in it straightening the clutch rod side so it can pass the headers
Once that’s done I’ll work on the fork side
Any further suggestions???
I’d look at the motor mounts and brackets. If you have broken or incorrect mount, I could be causing the engine to sit crooked. Take a look at the transmission crossmember and mount as well.
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Also there is an aftermarket zbar out there that works with several headers. Its not the cheapest option but worth a look before modifying yours incorrectly. Note how they differ from the stock one
Thanks Dawg!!! Buying just cause I can. And it might work. I would rather try something that might work than keep working on something that is not working.