Thanks. I really need to get her running smoothly. I’ve just put in over $5,000 I didn’t want to spend on all of this. Would just like to be able to drive her with confidence again.
If you keep this up, we are going to forbid you from working on the car.
I assume you have been in contact with the outfit you bought the motor from, hopefully getting some tech support, on why when it warms up you develop a knock? I feel for ya! I want to be driving mine also. Maybe one day soon it will all be back together 
Ha ha. Maybe that’d be for the best.
Yes. This morning. Their tech guy is going to call me back.
Let’s see, you said drivers side noise right? Did you pull the spark plugs on that side and happen to look at them? IDK that the pistons would travel that close in their up stroke that they could potentially tap a plug if it were too long a stem (wrong plugs) One would think that it would make the noise all the time then, but it could be (and I stress could be) conceivable in my mind anyway that if tolerances were that tight when oil got warm and thinned out that the pistons travel just a small fraction more and tap a plug stem if it were the wrong length plug. I could be all wet though as I truly am not knowledgeable on how much void space is in there when piston is at the top of it’s stroke. Thought pistons almost come to top of the block bore, and the combustion chamber was formed by a recess in the heads.
Just thinking out loud. I’m gonna learn something here too as your problem shakes out
I think it most prudent to get the warranty people involved so you don’t do anything that might void the warranty. A warranty is one of the benefits of the money you paid. A knock that develops after the engine (i.e. oil) warms up could be something serious like piston wrist pins or crankshaft bearings. Not trying to scare you, I have no idea what may be the culprit - but have had my own woes without the benefit of a warranty.
Can you describe the sound in more detail? If you had a hammer hitting something to mimic the sound, would you use a metal hammer or rubber? What would you hit? Does the noise get louder/softer with increase in rpm, present throughout the range or just at idle? Does the noise get faster with increased rpm?
Edit to add this afterthought: What do you have for exhaust manifolds? Any possibility you’re hearing a leak between heads and exhaust or a crack in manifold opening up once heated?
^^^ what he said
Yes, x3. This is what I had in mind but couldn’t string the words together this a.m., so I defaulted to breaking your stones.
Thanks all.
I decided to try and get the timing right first. To rule out everything else.
Problem is… The white line (top dead center) on the harmonic balancer is 90 advanced from where we need it to be.
I can’t seem to make enough adjustments to line it up with the timing light.
So we’re trying to see if the harmonic balancer was installed wrong, is the wrong size, or what.
Once I get that fixed… I think I may be ready to tackle the other noise… if it’s still there.
Considering that this engine and front end assembly is not from 1967, the harmonic balancer and pointer may not be set up correctly. 90* is waaay too advanced; the engine would not run.
:starts planning an intervention: 
Is an intervention when your friends come over, start drinking your beer and won’t stop talking to you long enough to let you do any actual work? If so, I just realized my neighbor is holding an intervention every time I open the garage!
I’m in… 
Ssava,
Haven’t heard from you for a while. What’s the good word on your engine issues?
Thanks. Seems the problem is a lifter. I’ve spoken to Blue Print Engines and they said to “give it a few days” and see if it goes away. Otherwise… they’re going to mail me some new ones and we have to install them.
And then … ?
I’ve been afraid to ask.
Ha ha.
The engine seems to be breaking in well. The lifter noise is taking longer and longer to start up. I spoke to BLue Print today and they said to give it a few hundred more miles and see if it goes away.