This one was gummed up with nicotine. Hosed it down with WD-40 on the mechanism. Hooked up 12 volts and it didn’t work initially. Had to use a points file on the breaker points to remove some carbon and corrosion and then after connecting 12 volts it came to life!
Thanks for the video. My old clock stopped as well. I had heard of this trick but hadn’t got around to it yet. Maybe soon…
I’ve done a half dozen or so from GM to now Ford. I used to use WD-40 but now use Deoxit contact cleaner then Fader Lube for electronics. If you use an off brand make sure it’s safe for plastics. The ones in my Cougars have been running strong for over two years and other over 6 months but the second one runs fast but with a foggy lens who cares.
Never have seen one that kept very good time. Normally they are 4 - 5 minutes fast per day so you basically have to set them every time you go for a drive. The one in my GT-E I did this to 25 years ago. It recently stopped so I will probably need to do it again.
WCCC sells new lenses so no excuse for a foggy or cracked one.
That’s what I need to do to mine. I did a gentle cleaning on it a while back, but it wouldn’t stay running. Maybe I need to give it a good blast and try again.
Another thing it needs is new contacts. Mine are pretty trashed! Anyone have a source for replacement contacts?
This seems like a good place to ask about clock replacement options. I have seen quartz replacements that have internal voltage regulators so they run off 12V from the existing plug. Are these any good? Also, do I need to buy the lens that has the elapsed time pointer installed, or can I transfer my current pointer over to a new lens? I already have a nice clear new lens but it has no elapsed time pointer installed.
oops, wrong thread. Never mind.
As a teenager I worked for a large jewelry store chain that had a fantastic shop filled with watch makers and skilled smiths working gold and silver. The watch makers did all kinds of watch and clock restoration.
What I saw them do many times was to immerse the movement of a watch or clock in kerosene. They said it would dissolve the old oil and waxy build up. They would wrap the movement in a soft towel and use compressed air to carefully blow it all dry. I am not talking 90 PSI here. Then they would use a syringe to apply light oil to the metal on metal contact areas. Typically jeweled positions didn’t seem to get oil. After letting is sink in they wrapped the movement again in a soft absorbent cloth and used the compressed air to blow out the excess oil. This would remove oil that only served to catch and hold dirt.
I wish I knew exactly that the oil was but it was about as thin as water. I have used this technique with old Ford clocks to great success using 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil.
Timesavers.com has a wide variety of light clock and watch oils like Bill describes. Sounds like there is hope for getting my old clock going again. I’m going to give it a try.
Point taken. Figured I had the right audience for my question, but better to start a new thread than to take an existing one off-topic. I’ve owned and worked on Cougars for 40 years, but I’m definitely a newbie on forums.
Well, it is still accurate at least twice a day, ya know…
That “CLICK” sound brought back a lot of memories.
I just pulled the cluster on mine the other day so this is one of the things on the list.
Edit… couldn’t resist pulling it out and taking a look.
Got it lubed and hooked to a power supply to see if it’ll run consistently:
Relay contacts are available but only in large (10K) quantities. Then you need a rivet setting tool to install them.
Originally, the contact surfaces were typically plated with a very thin coating of cadmium to avoid contact welding.
These days Tin/Silver oxide is used.
Avoid using a points file - it will remove the protective coating. Use a relay contact burning tool instead.
The points had to be filed to remove the corrosion and get a smooth surface. It there was any cadmium it was long gone.
When you hook the clock up to 12V for testing and troubleshooting, do you just jumper it to the car battery?
Yes, they run on 12 volts. A battery charger is not good, most of them produce a pulsating DC voltage with no load.
I’ve got mine hooked to a regulated 12v power supply. + to the post and neg is clipped to the frame of the clock.
Runs crazy fast but that’s just the way it goes.
When I get the car done, it’ll just be a checklist item like in an aircraft:
There is a part of the clock mechanism that will speed up the clock if you adjust the time ahead, and slow it down if you adjust the time back. I don’t know what that section is called, and I’m not having much success searching for it. I’m sure someone on this site has more detail.
If you correct the time frequently, you should be able to get the clock to converge to the right speed.
I tried repeatedly readjusting the time and it didn’t make any difference.
I have found what appears to be an adjustment that I’ve tweaked and it does seem to have had an effect.
I’m watching it for a few days and if it seems to be the case, I’ll attempt to take a picture of the adjuster and post it here on the off chance that the XR clock has the same type of movement.