Looks like I need to buy a new fuel tank for my '68 XR-7. WCCC has a premium and a Stainless steel version I am eyeing. Need someone to talk me off the cliff from buying the Stainless steel version. Is it worth the extra $200 investment or is it just “ooohhh look shiny!?!”
I think if you are garaging the car and not driving in salt and snow it’s not really needed.
You’re not alone. I too need to replace my tank also and have been wondering the same. What are the pros and cons of the steel versus stainless steel tank?
In my case, I know the car will only be driven during Summer months and sitting the remaining 8-9 months of the year in storage. My assumption (anyone, feel free to correct me) is that I wont get rust forming in the tank with stainless, and this could also be a bonus for protecting the FSU and filter screen. On the other side, you can buy 2 standard tanks, or three of the cheapos, for the cost of one stainless. I’m leaning towards stainless as I don’t want to go through replacing the tank again. (I also plan on developing a yearly winterizing process that includes draining the tank.)
The very best thing to do is to drain the tank and run the carb dry for storage. The problem is more about acid formed by water absorbed by methanol and sulfur in the gas.
So whichever tank you get make sure it has a drain plug on it…
I think the stainless tank is a false sense of security blanket and not worth the extra expense. The upside is that if the gas goes bad in your tank ( it will!) then you won’t have to buy a new tank, just have to drain the gas, dispose of it, and have the tank cleaned.
With the standard tank chances are there would be rust pits in the tank that might merit replacement of the tank.
With either tank, if the gas goes bad in the tank that same gas is also bad in the rest of the fuel system. This can be a really expensive problem when rebuilding the fuel pump, carburetor and replacing fuel lines each time it happens.
Better off either using race gas or Avgas or draining the tank if the car is likely to be dormant for 30 days or more.
Royce, any real world experience with or thoughts on additives that aim to reduce these problems and extend the shelf life of pump gas?
So, I opted for the Stainless steel version.
I agree that it may be an emotional investment and not an actual upgrade.
Since I plan on giving this car to my kid down the line, I wanted to ensure they have the best possible condition and options invested.
Additionally, I am investing so much in the premium version of everything to restore the car that I though it dumb to start counting pennies now.
The convo on this thread is much appreciated though. I love hearing your advice. Even if I go a different direction.
My experience is that none of the octane boosters or gasoline additives have any effect whatsoever. Other than draining your wallet.
I have to disagree with you on that one Royce. (And I hate to, because you do give some very good advice!)
I have used Stabil in my lawnmowers and generator for several years. With Stabil I can not crank one up for well over 8 months and pull on the start cord once…maybe twice and it cranks right up. When I didn’t use it, I would have to open up the carb and clean it out in order to get it to run.
Because of that experience, I also use it in my Cougar…especially with ethanol. She can sit for weeks and start /run with no issues.
That all being said, I do use a lot more than the directions say to use…like almost double.
Just my personal experience.
Turbo 108 octane booster,the cheapest Auto Zone has and it works fine.
My '96 Ford Ranger.I’m the original owner @ 367,000 miles.Engine’s never been apart and runs great(I take care of things).I think the original comp ratio’s 9:1? Well ,with all that carbon build up I’ve probably got 11 1/2 :1 and the PCM wasn’t designed to retard against that. Summer time temps @ 100-110 and climbing out of the San Joaquin valley floor w/the booster it doesn’t ping if pour enough in the tank.
In the late 1990’s I worked for a collector who had a collection of around 30 antique cars. For the previous 15 years most of my work for this fellow was rebuilding carburetors and fuel systems as gas went bad. I was on a first name basis at the local Redi Strip where I would take gas tanks for cleaning. We had an account and were billed monthly. Fred drove each of his cars maybe once or twice a year, usually 5 - 10 miles at the most.
Stabil didn’t have any effect when used as directed. All the gas went bad in every tank just like it did without Stabil. We found the most effective way to have each of his cars ready for the next drive was to remove the battery and place it on a trickle charge. We would drain the fuel and use it in his modern vehicles. As soon as we started this policy I had a lot less to do.
Heck ya, draining all the fuel including from carb is the absolute best way to keep the system from getting sludged up or having corrosion. Totally agree with that. I drive mine too much to go to those lengths, and too lazy to do it to the generator and lawnmower.
I am a firm believer in SeaFoam motor treatment. A fantastic all-around engine additive. I use it in every internal combustion engine i own.
Invented in the 30’s and trademarked in 1942.