Headlight Adjuster Bolts

First off, this is not a complaint about WCCC. I use them often and think they are great as both a parts source and video source.

That said, my headlight doors have the typical “low” look. I was interested in WCCC’s extended adjusting screws but one, they have been out of stock for months and two, $30 for a set of bolts seems kind of steep.

So my first attempt at fixing the issue was to use my laser cutter to cut adhesive baked rubber disks out and stack them as needed.


This worked for a while but as you can see, the disks see a lateral load and start to slide and cause the covers to sag again.

So then I got the idea of making my own extended adjusting bolts. So I took one of them down to the True Value and matched it up.


This bolt is found in their drawer area, not the common bin area. The ones in the bin have a shoulder with no threads. I got went with 2.5" bolts for about 56 cents a piece. I guessed on the length but got lucky since as you will see, they worked perfectly.

I first started out trying to use my lathe as a mill to cut the 7/32 head into the end of the bolt. Although it is doable, it was becoming a pain in the neck. So, I went over to my trusty grinder. It was surprisingly easy to make a nice 7/32 hex feature. The trick for me was to use the bolts hex feature as a guide and to keep testing with a 7/32 socket. Here are the results.

Part way done.


Finished

Installed

Installing is a little bit of a pain, but I was able to do it without disassembling the buckets. I removed the headlight frames and disconnected the vacuum motor arm to make it easier to move the door. The trick here was to remove the open adjusting bolt to maximize the door in the open position and then get the bolt resting in the threaded hole. Once I had that, I used a 1/2 socket attached to a universal joint swivel and then an extension to get the bolt started. Once threaded enough, I then used the newly created 7/32 feature to back it all the way so I could put the rubber pad on the 1/2 hex head. Then used the 7/32 to adjust the door. My doors are perfect now and I also have $30 to spend at WCCC on something else!

I might do it again with some stainless steel bolts if these start to rust up.

Jim

Why not cut a slot in the end of the bolt so you could make the adjustment with a flat screwdriver?

I thought about that but I figured it would look more original with the hex. But the slot was the backup plan.

Jim

Have to agree, my Wife tells me all of the time the car is a hobby…take your time and enjoy it

The reason that those are out of stock is that they just make the warped parts warp even more. There is also a cheap fix that you can do that is permanent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpEOboTw97Y

Bill,

Interesting that you mention the warping issue. This winter when I plan to detail the engine and grill area I plan on looking the headlight bucket area over and seeing if their is a bracing technique that could be applied that will be out of sight.

As for the Bump Stops, I have seen those before and may o that route in the future.

Jim

The bump stops are really the best ways to approach this issue. As pointed out earlier in this thread, longer adjuster bolts in the factory location will bend/warp the grille assembly even more than than the factory bolt. Remember that vacuum is constantly on the system, so unwanted forces are always being placed on the grille assembly. The bump stops spread the vacuum forces to multiple areas decreasing the warping. See the link below, it shows what I used to make my bump stops. Within the link below there is another link showing the stops installed on my convertible project.

Steven