Holley 4150 Rebuild (D0ZF-9510-AB / List 4514-1) - by Mike_B.
I’m a novice. I’ve never rebuilt a carburetor before. This ambitious venture started when I discovered my carb was leaking fuel from a stripped fitting (at the time I didn’t even know what to call the place it was leaking from). After some research and reading I learned it was my secondary fuel bowl. I’ve since had it repaired, as the cost was comparable to a new replacement. With my car running poorly prior to this, it pointed at the carburetor as the culprit. Since it was already half disassembled it seemed practical to rebuild it. I wanted to learn the process and possibly save the cost of a professional rebuild / restoration, so I thought I would try my hand at rebuilding it myself. It is just a few screws and gaskets, how tough can it really be? Besides, I can always pay a pro to fix my mess, if need be.
First thing I did was figure out what rebuild kit I would need. Very few rebuild kits specifically list my Holley LIST 4514 number as a compatible carburetor. I ended up going with an NPD 4150 kit (PN: 9A586-12) because it only listed Ford 428/CJ/SCJ applications, and appeared to have the fewest “extra” parts that I would have to sort through. I didn’t want extra parts complicating things.
Next I went shopping for cleaners / solvents. Apparently the traditional method of cleaning is to disassemble all the parts and remove the old gaskets, and then soak the parts in solvent to soften any remaining gasket material, varnish and deposits. Spray with a carburetor cleaner while scrubbing to remove gaskets and gunk, rinse your parts, and then blow dry with compressed air. Easy!
My list of tools;
- Socket set
- Wrench set and / or Crescent wrench
- Screwdriver set
- Safety Goggles
- Rubber gloves (for working with fuel or solvents)
- Solvent (I used Berryman’s, in a 1gal can with a parts basket)
- Carburetor Cleaner spray (again, Berryman’s)
- Brush, stiff bristled plastic
- Shop Towels / cleaning cloths
- Large Pan (I used a large aluminum turkey pan from the dollar store)
- Cup or bowl (optional, for draining fuel bowls)
- Four 2” bolts and eight nuts (a makeshift carburetor work stand)
Carburetor Removal
Removing my carburetor was much easier than I anticipated. It is basically held in place by four nuts and has 4 cables or hoses attached to it.
SAFETY! Ensure the vehicle is not running when removing the carburetor. Wear safety goggles and proper chemical handling gloves when handling or working with fuel, solvents and cleaners. Ensure fuel, solvents and cleaners are kept away from open flames or heat sources. Always follow the directions on the labels of your solvents and cleaners, and check for chemical compatibility between cleaners and solvents you are using.
NOTE: Some people may prefer to drain the fuel from the carburetor before removing it from the intake manifold (see step 3). I found it was easier to drain after removal (see steps 9 and 10). Your results may vary.
- At the front of the carburetor disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter (see Figure 1). Use a cloth to catch and wipe up any spilled fuel.
----a. Depending on your fuel filter connection, this may require a screw driver (for screw clamps), or pliers (for spring clamps).
FIGURE 1 - Front Driver’s Side
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Cap off the fuel line to prevent spilling fuel.
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Drain the Fuel Bowls (OPTIONAL at this point);
----a. Place a cup or bowl below one of the Primary Fuel Bowl screws to catch the fuel as it drains. You may also want to put down a towel to catch any spilled fuel.
----b. Loosen one of the bottom fuel bowl screws until the fuel drains out into the cup/bowl (see Figure 2)
----c. Repeat for the Secondary Fuel Bowl on the other end of the carburetor.
----d. Remove the Fuel Line connector between the Primary and Secondary Fuel Bowls (located on the passenger side of the carburetor - see Figure 3, below) and drain the fuel from it into the cup/bowl.
FIGURE 2 - Driver’s Side
- Remove the manual choke connection on the passenger side of the carburetor (see Figure 3).
NOTE: This may vary if your carburetor is not equipped with a manual choke.
----a. Loosen the screw holding the choke actuator wire and remove the wire from the mount.
----b. Loosen the screw clamping the black choke actuator and disconnect the choke actuator from the carburetor.
FIGURE 3 - Passenger Side
- Disconnect the vacuum line from the passenger side of the carburetor (see Figure 4).
FIGURE 4 - Front Passenger Side
- Disconnect the throttle return spring located on the driver’s side of the carburetor (see Figure 5).
FIGURE 5 - Driver’s Side
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Disconnect the throttle actuator from the throttle linkage on the driver’s side of the carburetor (see Figure 5). The actuator snaps on/off of the linkage.
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Remove the nuts at the four corners of the carburetor using a socket or wrench (see Figures 1 through 5, for reference).
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Gently lift the carburetor off of the mounting studs. Be careful not to tip or tilt the carburetor if you have not drained the fuel bowls yet as this may cause fuel to spill or drip from the carb. You may have to work the carburetor loose from the intake manifold, but do not pry on the carburetor or you may damage it.
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Drain the Fuel Bowls (skip this step if you drained the fuel bowls already)
----a. Place the carburetor in a large pan to catch the fuel as it drains from the Fuel Bowls. You may also need a towel to catch any spilled fuel.
----b. Loosen one of the bottom screws on the Primary Fuel Bowl until the fuel drains out into the pan (see Figure 2).
----c. Repeat for the Secondary Fuel Bowl on the other end of the carburetor.
----d. Remove the Fuel Line connector between the Primary and Secondary Fuel Bowls, located on the passenger side of the carburetor and drain the fuel from it into the pan (see Figure 3).
----e. Tip the carb as necessary to ensure all fuel has been drained. You may also need to manually actuate the Accelerator Pump lever (located on the bottom of the Primary Fuel Bowl - see Figure 1) to release stored fuel.
----f. Drain the fuel from the pan into a proper storage or disposal container. -
If desired, install the four sets of nuts and bolts into the mounting holes on the carburetor. These will act as “feet” or stands so you may actuate the carburetor butterfly valves without damaging them.
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Place a clean shop towel or intake cover plate over the carburetor opening on the intake manifold to prevent debris from falling into the intake.
This ends the Carburetor Removal portion of the procedure.
I’m still in the middle of my carb rebuild - last weekend I disassembled and cleaned it, so I’ll try to get that written up next. I intend to post the remaining portions of the procedure as I progress, and with a little luck I’ll be firing the car back up next weekend!
