I hope someone can help me with a wiring issue. I recently purchased a nice running '68 Cougar (standard). I couldn’t see anything on the dash very well after dark so I pulled my gauges to replace the diffusers carefully put it all back and now she won’t start.
I’ve got fuel, I’ve got spark, carb rebuilt, coil is new, distributor is a rebuild but she ran on it before I touched the dash, she cranks, but won’t run. If I can get it running she won’t run more than about a minute. She won’t then restart. Timing is close and will be adjusted if I can get it to run long enough. Everyone I talked to says check the resistance wire, so now you see where I am.
My resister wire (pink) apparently broke off in the past and someone wired it in with the red w/yellow stripe to get it to run. Upon closer inspection the pink wire broke off a the back of the ignition block. Does anyone know how to remove the old pin from the block so I can attach a new pin to the pink wire and plug it back in properly? Or do I need to buy a new replacement when WCCC has them in stock?
I’d like to stay away from the after market replacement.
Does anyone have the ignition end of the pigtail with full pink wire they would be willing to sell?
Suggestions appreciated.
Frustrated,
James
That wiring is perfectly OK, so long as the butt-splice has integrity. That plug has been replaced (every wire has a splice) and the repro plug doesn’t have the right plug wire colors or dual wires for that particular pin.
If you have a tach in your dash, be sure to reconnect it, as it is in-line with the ignition switch and the coil. When cranking, the engine will catch, but as soon as you release the key, the engine will die. You say it runs for a minute or so, which indicates that is not the problem. Check your connections at the coil and the wire back to the firewall: that’s a likely place for a bad splice or poor connection.
Thanks Midlife. I was hoping you might chime in on this. Thanks for the long distance diagnosis. The wires are in bad shape from the ignition coil back to the firewall and were on the list to replace. I moved them up the list and have ordered new ones and they are on there way. I’ll let you know how I fair…
New wires came in. Still won’t run for more than 20-30 seconds before shutting itself off.
6.3 volts at coil when key on, jumps to 13 volts when starting.
Recent ignition
replacement block at back to ignition
New wire from firewall to ignition coil.
rebuilt distributor, points and condenser, cap rotor,
new plug wires
new spark plugs
starter is working
carb rebuilt
Car ran before I pulled the gauge cluster to change bulbs and diffusers and serviced the fuel sending unit.
Fuel coming thru from tank. (checked 3 times)
All grounds seem to be fine as well.
I’m scratching my head on this one. I don’t think the problem has anything to do with the gauge cluster, unless you have a tach.
What’s the voltage at the coil with the key on but the 90* connector on the coil disconnected? You should see 12V.
Me too. That’s the problem. We are only seeing about 6, but when the key is turned to crank it jumps to 13.
I just replaced the ground from the block to the firewall which was very deteriorated and the wire from the starter to the solenoid. It wasn’t as bad, but needed to be replaced. Didn’t help. I am starting to think its the block and pigtail. What do you think?
Getting 13V while cranking is expected, as the voltage is coming from the starter solenoid vice the ignition switch when cranking. You only see 6 volts with the engine off and the lead to the coil off? Then something is dragging the ignition voltage down terribly. Disconnect the dash and try again, as the run-only line also powers up various indicator lamps (e.g. brakes, alternator, oil, etc.). If that works, try removing every indicator lamp bulb (not turn signals or high beam) and test again. If OK, start adding one bulb at a time and see which one causes the run-only line to drop.
The other area that could cause it to drop is at the voltage regulator. You can try and disconnect the VR plug and see if that helps.
Thanks Midlife. I checked over everything and found nothing incorrect. I think my problem is the replacement pigtail has issues related to what you were talking about. I have pretty much eliminated everything else. Several of the wires are in less than stellar condition. I am calling out a mobile mechanic who has the right tools to be able to rewire the pigtail and hopefully figure out what’s going on. Not the route I wanted to go, but if that isn’t the problem, I hope he can figure it out. Not money I wanted to spend, but I’ve pretty much replaced everything else and finding a used pigtail may be extremely expensive and near impossible.
Well she’s still stuck in the garage. Turns out the ignition wiring is a mess. I finally got the new used pigtail & resister wire from WCCC (Thanks Rich), but I am having a problem. I can’t seem to find where the resister (pin wire) plug is located up under the dash. Does anyone have a picture of where this animal is. I’ve followed it all the way to the large taped up bundle behind the washer motor, but from there it branches in 3 different directions. I can follow all the other wires going up to the grommet thru the firewall, etc. but still no plug. It also seems the wire is much longer than it needs to be. To make visibility worse this is also a factory air car so its crammed under there. I also highly recommend anyone else needing to replace the ignition wire and resister, take the front seats out. Its nearly impossible to get he right angle to see what you are looking for with so much under there.
Anyone help on this on location the other end or have pictures?
Thanks
1968 resistor wire starts at a black four pin square plug that mates to the headlight harness, and ends either in a male bullet (tach dash) or to the ignition switch (run-only pin for standard, non-tach dash). Yes, the wire has to be a certain length to make the nominal 1.3-1.7 ohms required. At the four pin black plug, another line tied to the resistor wire goes to the engine gauge feed plug on the engine side of the firewall (red/green wire).
Well progress has finally been made. My ignition block was a mess. I did find the other end of the plug I was searching for. It was wrapped up with a bunch of other plugs by the drivers door. The pink resister wire went back and joined the main harness and crossed the behind the instrument cluster toward the drivers door. After inspecting the wiring it was in good condition except for the first foot or so at the ignition. I opted to not replace the bundle but instead popped the pins and made new connections with as few splices as possible. I had a difficult time finding the right bullet pins. Pico makes the small ones, but I had to modify the larger ones. They fit tight to the pins on the ignition, but I would like some better ones. WCCC doesn’t have them, local Ford dealer didn’t have them either, NAPA no, O’Reillys nope. Anyone know where I can get the larger pins?
Thanks SPLINEHEAD. They only have 14G. The ones I need are for 12G for the Black and Yellow wires. Unless I am wrong on the wire gauge or someone changed it previously. Either way those are to small. The female heads need to be large enough to fit the male pin on the back of the ignition cylinder.
Time to update: She finally got out of the garage today! I had to rewire the ignition block, actually making two connectors because they aren’t available anymore. Thanks for the heads up Midlife.
That unfortunately wasn’t the only problem. Apparently the points and condenser in the “new” distributor went bad. I did have to call in a mechanic to diagnose and fix the issue, but I got very lucky that the mechanic around the corner from me worked for a Ford Dealership between '66-'71 and was able to figure it out pretty quickly. He actually rebuilt the original distributor instead of the aftermarket. I was fortunate it came with the air conditioner parts when I bought the car.
He also fixed several other issues I wasn’t aware of. He did upgrade my ignition repair and soldered a questionable crimp on one wire to be certain it wouldn’t fail again.
Thanks again to everyone for your help.
