Robert, I put a smaller diameter ‘hub’ on the car compared to the one you have on Isabel. There were three in the package, and no specific instructions on which one to use.
Well today I did more work on the car. I was bummed that the package of parts I thought would be here was a no-show. I decided to take another look at the trunk lock and compared the mechanism with the one on my '67 GT. I saw the GT had plenty of length on the lock lever to reach the latch slot. I considered lengthening the lever on the '69 by welding another piece of metal on the end, but then decided to try a different method of making the lever reach the latch slot. I split the spring on the lock with the lever and also removed the rubber gasket that seals the lock on the trunk. This bought me another 3/16" or so of length, which was sufficient to reach the latch slot.
I put the end of the lock lever here where you see the screwdriver.
I used black silicone sealant between the lock and the trunk sheet metal to ensure that no moisture could enter the trunk through the lock.
I next took the ignition lock and switch out of the car and swapped out the old lock for the one in the matching set I purchased from WCCC. I had to look at a video on Youtube that showed me how to remove the key cylinder, which involved making a tool out of a piece of wire to push into the hole below the key entrance to depress a spring loaded pin. This allows you to turn the key counter clockwise past accessory, and then the lock cylinder just slides out for replacement. The Youtube video is a big help in seeing how this works.
On reassembly I couldn’t get the key switch to tighten up with the threaded bezel, so does anyone know how that works? I played around with the light housing back behind the dash using it as a spacer but never figured out how to get the darn thing tightened.
Ken,
Not sure about the hub thing, I have a die cast adapter with a copper ringed printed circuit board (for the horn contacts). Without the cover I have been speaking of, the adapter would look like heck - between the end of the column housing and the beginning of the rubber accordion part of the wheel. The only “other” sort of adapters I have seen go in place of the accordion thing, they make a machined metal one, a polished version too. Do you have a PN for the set of pieces you chose from? Just curious, if you are happy with the setup, that is all that matters.
The ignition thing is generally a finesse type of operation. Yes, the light housing goes in between. You have to hold the light housing and the switch just so and thread the bezel on - getting it started is the hard part. Does the nut fit/thread onto the switch properly when it is hanging down under the dash? This might be something to check/learn the “feel” of before going to the actual installation operation.
Not to jack the thread, but as Bob points out, sometimes you have to feel how things go together. I can do some things better by feel than by sight.
“I can do some things better by feel than by sight.” OK xr7g, what might that be?? LOL
Anyway, today I tried to track down a missing package of goodies. Also, some goodies showed up. 
I will be posting more pix tomorrow.
I will also take another look at the ignition switch. The bezel does thread on cleanly, but I have to figure out how to orient the courtesy light bezel so that it allows the switch to tighten against the dash. I have had to remove the seats and steering wheel so I can lay upside down (on pillows to keep my back from getting killed) while doing this work.
I had to run into town (60 miles round trip) to pick up the Foose wheels and tires. I will mount them tomorrow and show them off to those of you following my progress. More parts are scheduled to arrive this week so I am pretty stoked!
I seem to recall that there is a tab on the one section and a cutout on the other that must be lined up for the bezel to tighten down properly.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Yesterday was an eventful one. Here are some of the goodies that showed up.
There is one area where they brushed the fins to remove the black paint where there is still some black paint showing. I plan on polishing the brushed area so no biggee.
Here’s what lies under the rocker covers.
I picked up the Foose wheels and new Continental tires yesterday. They will be going on today and I will post some pix.
Some more progress today. More new parts. 
Love your car, but I think you have your valve covers on the wrong sides. Oil fill goes on drivers side front on our cars. The PVC valve goes on passenger side rear.
What’s your plan for the old valve covers? The kid that works for me is looking for a set for his '66 Ford pick-up. (Hint he works for me so he doesn’t have a lot of money) 
Ken,
Did the PO replace the radiator support? I seem to recall that the hole and slots (for hood pins?) did not start until 1970 production. Maybe they started them in late '69, I dunno.
P.P.S. Remind me and I will check the trunk lock rod on an old lock for you when I get home tomorrow. I can provide them if you would like to make it like original (rather than your improvisation).
Daryl, I may have the valve covers on the wrong side. I oriented them the way the PO and engine builder (Jeff Jahns) had them on the ones I took off. The oil fill is toward the back on the new covers, will that make any difference? Maybe I should swap them anyway? I did receive the five volume service manuals today so I will take a look in the book.
Al, I am going to have these re-chromed and keep them for an all-chrome look for the engine bay at times. They have the walking cat on them and probably wouldn’t look good on a truck anyway.
Robert, I first want to show you what the steering wheel hub cover looks like. I had three sizes of covers, and went with one that fit inside the tilt-away. It looks like you chose the largest of the three hub covers.
As for the radiator support, I suppose anything is possible. But I don’t know this car or '69 Cougars well enough to say. I do know that it looks factory and if it was done after it was sold they did a heck of a job. I haven’t seen any evidence any of the sheet metal in the front of the car has ever been replaced.
Glad you like the wheels, but look at that stance! It looks like it just launched for a drag race! I measured 5" from the top of the tire to the wheel well. You mentioned that you only dropped the front of your car 1 or 2 inches, but it looks like I need to do a much larger drop. How do you think I should proceed?
Thanks for checking on the lock rod for me. I hope that '69 rod is a bit longer than the one on the car now.
Ken, you do have the cover I was speaking of, guess the other pic did not show it well.
On the trunk lock, I would think the rod would be the same 69 or 70.
Some more goodies showed up today. First was the replica rear spoiler. I later found out you need to order the extensions and mounting hardware separately. The chrome fender moulding also arrived today, but missing one bag of mounting screws. I also received the SS side mouldings, and they sure look nice. Finally I received the mounting hardware for the new aluminum radiator. I had to tap the frame where the lower radiator mounts attach, and cut a small section off the bottom of the driver’s side lower mount to make everything fit correctly. But that big 3-row aluminum radiator sure looks handsome on the car!
I also cleaned some rusty mounting bolts and hardware. I just painted them black for now, and will be looking for something a lot better. But at least I can look at the pictures now and see less and less rusty components that I have yet to fix.
My wife helped me out by removing the rug backing that was embedded in the trunk. We had to use a 3-M paint removing pad to remove some of the dried rug cr@p. I will be re-painting some of the trunk as a result. She also was able to remove the duct-tape stickum from the front firewall.
Robert, I measured the vertical distance from the ground to the front fender well at 29 3/4" and the distance from the ground to the top of the tire is 25". What are the dimensions on Isabel and how do you think I should proceed to lower the car? Thanks in advance!
Yesterday I started putting the wheel lip mouldings on the car. My wife really likes the look! Next on the agenda is to install the stainless steel rocker cover mouldings. I am missing one nylon mount and also need to verify the orientation of the mouldings, as they are different on each end. I am assuming that the more tapered end goes towards the rear of the car, and the more rounded end faces front.
Front or rear?
Bad luck again, missing one nylon mount.
You said SS rocker moldings, I thought you meant Sport Special, not Stainless Steel. In any case, the car will tell you the right way to put them. I want to say the more curved end is the rear side. Will be in touch on the other things I promised to look at for you.
Ha, sorry about that Robert, it is indeed stainless steel. I called WCCC and spoke with Junior, who verified that the more pointy end faces top front, which is opposite of what I was thinking. I also found out there is a complete kit for the rear spoiler, P/N 14517. Thanks for checking on the other parts I am looking for.
The black stripe faces upward too, just in case there was any doubt. I will double check the molding positioning for you when I get home, I drove Isabel to work today.
Look for LF fender extension Cougar emblem
Measure trunk lock rod
Height measurements at wheel wells
Was there anything else I promised?
P.S. Spoiler kit, yes. Never heard of any spoilers that did not come with stands, gaskets and mounting hardware. BTW, the repro HW the kits comes with is not correct and the gaskets are not right either. There is a concours gasket set I recommend and I used a AMK stud and nut kit for the trunk mounting (think there was something not right about it, not for '69? but nice fit/finish with rubber “nubs” for the stud ends). I made proper thickness spacers from nylon spacers I got from Lowes and fished them up into place and pushed the stands/studs down through them. Without spacers the trunk skin gets squished down too much toward the trunk understructure.
Hi Robert. I was hoping that I could use the existing mounting holes for the stainless steel rocker mouldings. It appears that the mouldings would be just under the doors using the existing mounting holes, but I still need to do some more checking.
As for the rear spoiler, for some reason I didn’t see the entire ‘kit’ when I did a search on the WCCC web site. It may be because I had 1969 selected and the kit came up for a 1970 model. However, the other parts are on their way and I did order the premium mounting pads. I will check the mounting hardware once it arrives. The nylon spacers you made sound like a smart move and something I will do once I figure out how much spacing I need.
Thanks again for looking for the other parts. The only other thing I need at this time is some advice on the best way to lower the way-too-high front end. I know you mentioned the Shelby drop and also shorter front springs.
I got some goodies yesterday and will post more pictures later.
