See what I mean?:
Here’s another that give you some idea where the studs land inside.
This is the one I was looking for:
I will measure from the trunk lid back to the front of the stand gasket when I get home this evening.
Thank you Robert! I will be interested in seeing what your measurement is compared to what I was provided. I looked online at a lot of pictures of 69’s with spoilers, but most were at an angle that didn’t show very good how far back the spoiler sits. But from what I saw I kind of suspected that my spoiler is sitting a little bit forward of where it ought to be.
Also, do you know why the studs that go through the trunk lid are so long? They appear to stick down a lot further than they need to.
Today a couple of items arrived. The first was the chrome bracket for the throttle cable off the carburetor. I will have to fabricate a small bracket to keep the main bracket from moving if it ever came loose on the main mounting bolt. But it was nice to get rid of the home-made bracket.
The spring compressor I purchased off Ebay arrived today. It is a very stout looking unit and definitely worth the investment if you want to do the job by yourself and not risk injury. The top nut takes a very large wrench. The compressor has a worm gear rod that I lubricated before use to make things easier.
The spring compressor mounts to the top of the shock tower just like the shock absorber.
The bottom mounts like the shock absorber as well, using two bolts that are welded on the bottom of the compressor. It was difficult to get the nut on the inner bolt. I had to hold the spring compressor up by pushing the outer bolt up to the bottom of the spring rocker, and then was able to get enough clearance to start the inner nut.
Removing the spring took a while. After compressing the spring enough that I knew there was no pressure on the lower arm, I removed the nuts holding it to the spring rocker so that I could drop the lower arm enough to clear the two rocker bolts. At this point you can begin to back the spring off, letting it slip outward on the rocker arm. I ran into a problem when the spring and rocker reached the fully extended rocker arm and wanted to hang up there. I used a dead blow hammer to try to keep the spring and rocker slipping out and down, but there came a point where there just wasn’t any clearance left.
So I ended up loosening the nuts on the bottom of the spring rocker that held the spring compressor on, and that eased the spring another 3/4" or so. After that I loosened the shock tower cap and tried to tip the top of the spring compressor farther inward in an attempt to cock the bottom of the compressor, spring, and spring rocker outward enough to clear the lower arm. This helped, but didn’t take all the pressure off. Prying made the bottom piece pop out, with enough tension that I was a bit concerned about getting bit.
So I was finally able to remove the spring completely, after two to three hours! I measured the spring at 17 1/4" not including the upper spring isolator.
I now have enough information to shop for lowering springs.
I tried to remove the control arm the spring rocker mounts to but there seems to be a clearance issue. I need to get it out so I can clean and repaint it, along with all the other components that have lost their clean shine.
You noticed the nut on the upper control arm has come out, right? I would be worried about getting that back in correctly, the dogbone has a very course thread while the nuts/control arm is a much finer thread. I have no idea how to get the nut back in because of this.
Check the dogbone to nut interfaces too, looks like your UCA’s have been rebuilt rather than replaced (since the ball joint was bolted in). The dogbone/nuts wear badly most of the time, perhaps a kit was put in, maybe that is why the nut has come out (UCA hole stripped?).
Actually I backed the UCA nut off trying to get the arm out of the way for clearance to drop the spring/rocker assembly which was stuck, my bad. I haven’t removed these parts before and probably made a rookie mistake. Next time I will look in the shop manual before I get carried away. I need to remove the arm anyway to clean and repaint it, there has to be a way.
Did you ever get a measurement for me on the mounting point for the rear spoiler? It sure looks like the one on Isabel sits farther back than the spec I was provided.
Forgot, sorry! Send me a PM to remind me and I will do that tonight. Speaking of PM’s, did you get mine? They raped me for the padded envelope postage and cancelled the stamp on the original envelope, oh well. At least it is for a good cause!
Ken,
21-3/4" back from trunk lid edge to front of spoiler gasket. A couple of caveats, I am not sure where I got the measurement, but I did get it somewhere on MCnet. Also, the studs land in the right spot on the inside frame of the lid. So, while these are positive signs, I am not saying my setup is correct as measurements on say a factory '69 Eliminator wing, but they look right and the fasteners land in the right spot on the inside of the lid. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Robert
Thanks Robert for your measurement on the rear spoiler, and sorry about the postage cost. I probably should have just welded an extension on the one I had, since this isn’t a concourse restoration. I hear you on shipping - I just returned the chrome alternator and brackets that don’t fit and the shipping was $27.55 USPS!
Today I called Total Control Products in Sacramento and spoke with C-Ray about my front springs being 17 1/4" long. He told me that the 1" lowering springs they offer are 13" free length, so I ordered them and the 1/4" spring isolators. The installation instructions say that the springs can be cut and each 1/2" off the spring lowers the car 1". This has me a little puzzled because if that is the case and these new springs are 4 1/4" shorter than what was on the car, the lowering amount would be 8 1/2" which is a lot more than the 5-6" I am looking for.
Well I will know more once they arrive, and for anyone needing to know the P/N for the 1" lowering springs is TCPSLM2-60 and the isolator TCPSVM1-01.
I finished painting the front grille and let the paint cure before I will assemble it.
I then turned my attention to the suspension and brake components that have weathered. I started by removing the control arm that the spring rocker attaches to. Two bolts on the underside, which I couldn’t get to with the overly-long spring on, mount the arm and pivot. The nuts are accessible in the engine compartment.
I was expecting the pivot shaft to be riding on needle bearings or a bushing, but this was not the case. The inner shaft was a worm gear of sorts and the end cap/nuts with the fine threads on the outside are being bypassed because the threads on the control arm are stripped. So it appears I need new control arms. There were zerk fittings on the end cap/nuts but the pivot was not greased. Good grief.
In case I can still use the pivot and end cap/nuts I painted them.
The rest of the day I spent cleaning the lower control linkage and disc brake mount getting them ready to be repainted.
Robert, I measured for the rear spoiler based on the specs you gave me for Isabel. Here are the pictures that show the position of the spoiler:
Does this look correct? The spoiler struts are right on the cusp of being on a rounded surface, based on the curve to the rear for the trunk lid.
Looks right to me but let me look at the rear cusp thing you mention on my car. Mine are definitely in the flat area but could be close the the beginning of the lid turn down. How long are the stands? Where does my positioning land the studs on the trunk under structure? And finally, what is your impression of how the positioning looks vs the first measurements you used?
Based on these real Elim’s, I’d say my measurements/guidance is correct:
Carlton Wright’s car (see second pic):
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2012/11/01/hmn_feature1.html#PhotoSwipe1410012931164
Then, use the magnifier on the auction picture here:
Looks to me like my positioning is correct.
P.S. I think I have a crush on your assistant! 
Bob… I think that’s a dude. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. Perhaps explains your obsession with, ummm, transmissions.
Snicker, snicker, snicker… la la la la Lola…
DOH!!! Could it be?
Open mouth, insert foot
If in fact I have imagined Ken as a woman (which I’ll admit would have me red in the face), he has it hands down over you know who…
Jeez, where do I start? For one, that’s my assistant for the past 34 years, as in wife! 5’ 10" and 106lbs, which most female models would kill for. And just how many men assistants paint their toenails pink (see last picture)? 
Makes me wonder what the guys up in Duluth do when they are bored, (not that there’s anything wrong with that" as Seinfeld would say).
As for imagining me as a woman, NOT a pretty picture, ok? I’ve been a man most of my life (short stint as a boy).
Enough levity.
The pix you show look like your measurements are correct Robert, so thank you for that. I will drill holes tomorrow, as today we have a very important football game, and my assistant and I are wearing our Oregon Green and Yellow shirts.