I was unhappy with the illumination from the stock headlights and avoided driving at night. After researching previous LED topics on this forum I knew I had to find LEDs that fit and wouldn’t blind other drivers. I ended up going with Dapper Lighting OE5 with the OE lens, Dapper Lighting OE5 (Set of 4 Headlights). The OE lens option helps to keep that stock look.
The lights fit into the bucket without any modification to the bucket. I only had to remove one of the three plastic tabs on the light. Even with one of three tabs removed the light fit snug inside the bucket. The rear of the light only protruded about an inch out from the rear of the bucket which left me room to spare when installing them. The only other modification I had to make to the lights were to reduce a 3 prong plug down to a 2 prong plug to install the lights into the high beam connector. This was simply done by just clipping off the top prong.
Once installed I took my time aiming the lights to make sure I wouldn’t blind other drivers. These lights have a distinct horizontal cutoff line which makes aiming them easy. I used the wall aiming method then verified the correct height by having my wife drive another car to make sure the low beams stayed below the window line on her car.
I then purchased the WCCC LED taillights and LED turn signal lights and couldn’t be happier. Now that I’m running all these LEDs my regular dashboard lights now have extra power and they really light up. I now look forward to driving at night.
I did the dash lights several years ago and not sure if the current LED light kit is the same as I used, (we tested several types and brands) but the only problem I had was the four white bulbs. The LED I used was ground sensitive so I had to reverse the power and ground wires on the back of the dash. From the factory the blue/red wire is the ground and the black is power. Easy fix.
Yes, but beware that it is only 71-73 that three bulbs are reverse polarity: heater switch, ignition switch, and headlight switch. Same is true for Mustangs. Very strange design by Ford…
I don’t have them yet but they are on my list. I’m hesitant to remove my dash as I fear I might do more damage than good . My mechanic level is basically a beginner but I want to learn. I look at some of the work in the project forum and know I will never be at that level. How difficult of a job is it for a 73?
To replace the 4 IP lights for the main gauges you pretty much just have to remove the dash pad, not a bad job, just don’t manhandle the pad removing it. To pull the IP out is a tad bit more aggressive, not a lot of room back there to get ahold of the speedo cable and harness plug. Some people remove the front seats so your not in pretzel mode.
I couldn’t remember where I got mine It was HiPoParts. Get the brightest ones because the dimmer will work. I put them in my 69 and along with their fluorescent paint, the gauges are unbelievably more visible. The only interior light I haven’t changed to LED is the radio. That’s because the radio in it now is temporary.
. My mechanic level is basically a beginner but I want to learn. I look at some of the work in the project forum and know I will never be at that level. How difficult of a job is it for a 73?