Does anyone have a suggestion for fixing this problem? I have a 1967 base. I have replaced the taillights with plasma LEDs, replaced the turn signal relay with the solid state part, and replaced the factory unit with the sequential solid state unit. All working fine–turn signals, four-way flashers, parking lights, headlights, and tail lights. When I installed plasma LEDs for parking lights, both flash when I try to use the turn signals as they would in the four-way flasher mode. The sequential tail lights continue to work correctly. Might there be a quick fix to this or should I settle for using the original 1157 bulbs as the parking lights? Thank you.
You might try cleaning the sockets and wire tips in the socket, make sure they are clean and in good condition and seated properly. Also check and make sure they are the correct bulb, it should be the yellow #1157. I know the reverse light bulbs get mixed up with the single and double post bulbs.
Thank you
Hey, Bigurnge. I just caught your user name. So are you a T fan, former student, or resident. We lived in Crossville for a few years, but I was a T fan for many years. I think I took the losing streak with me when we moved. No wait they got rid of Dooley.
That’s what sucks, is they hired him the year we moved to Tennessee, and kept him until after we left.
I think Butch Jones may make it. It all unraveled when we hired Mike Hamilton as AD: he fired Fulmer, hired Dooley and Kiffin. Hamilton’s claim to fame was hiring basketball coach Bruce Pearl, and we know how that worked out. I graduated from UTK, and my brother from UT Chattanooga. Thanks for the reply. And…GO VOLS!!!
A couple of questions for you re: taillights. I was trying to replace the incandescents with plasmas and had trouble fitting the plasmas in the sockets - they appear to be too long for the studs on the side to reach the little recesses in the socket. I had to press really hard to get the incandescents back in. The outboard driver’s side light was at first the only turn signal not to work (its “headlights on” light was OK) but none of the turn signals on either side are working now. So, 1) has anyone had difficulty installing their plasmas and 2) why would reinstalling the incandescents change how the lights are functioning?
Thanks in advance. >>> Brad
Indeed. I hated when Pat Summit got sick. Awesome coach.
Brad, what year car are you working on?
68
Brad, I bought the early plasma lights for my 68 and I could not get them to work at all because the base was too short, I sent them back and the new ones came with the slightly longer base and WCCC inscribed on the base, I had to push a little harder to get them seated, but they worked fine, You may have collapsed the spring in the bulb housing and the old bulbs are not making contact. Take a blunt object and see if you have spring action in the sockets.
Thanks. There did appear to be a little more give in one of the sockets when pressing the bulb and it would eventually go in. I’ll give it a try tomorrow.
Yep . She was a class act on and off the court. She is responsible for the popularity and success of womens’ basketball.
Hey Catlover,
First problem resolved, another to replace it. The trick about getting the bulbs to seat is to take the rubber sleeve/socket off, insert the bulb and put the sleeve back on. I felt a little foolish for not figuring that out.
Second problem now. The plasma taillights look and work as advertised but putting plasmas in the back up lights appears to have blown the fuse handling the back up lights, the “PRDNL” lights on the shifter and the radio. I put the original incandescent bulbs back and will replace the fuse to see if the plasmas are the culprits. Any thoughts on that in the meantime?
Thanks,
Brad
I’m not sure, but the LED’s are suppose to draw less current, do what you have planed and see if that works, you might find something shorted out during change-out of bulbs.
Thanks, that was my thought also. I just got back from Auto Zone trying to find a 14 amp fuse per the shop manual - 15 was as close as they carry and may have to be the answer if it is the fuse.
A “mobile mechanic” happened to come in to visit one of the guys there. He spotted the car immediately and offered to check it out. All the wires were showing current but there is a blue wire that he says is the ground which was totally unconnected. I’m not enough of a mechanic to know if that is the problem or a problem by itself but it seems odd that it’s not connected. Any thoughts on that one?
15 amp is OK , where is the blue wire, does it have any different color stripe on it, does the end have a ring terminal on it or is it just cut, most ground wires are black.
The wire runs from roughly where the accelerator is toward the center. I wasn’t able to quite get down there to confirm it (a little hernia surgery) so perhaps I missed his reference. Assuming it is a black wire, shouldn’t it be connected instead of just dangling? It’s going in to the shop have a look at an engine leak so I’ll also have them take a look then. That shop reinstalled the radio so it’s possible the wires were altered then.
That might be a light wire for the radio or heater, check for voltage with lights on and off.