I first started considering this back in 2021 and have watched tons of videos with wildly different suggestions, experiences, and in many cases the information seems to conflict. I have a quote from Modern Driveline for a full conversion kit but noted there is no clutch pedal and a few other oddities, so my comfort accepting their recommendation is shaky at best.
For those who have made the swap from an automatic to a T5, I have some preliminary questions:
Did you source your own parts or go with a complete package vendor?
If a vendor, which one and would you go back to them?
What is the minimum clearance from ground to frame necessary to get the automatic out and get the new components installed?
Where did your installation stall to obtain a different part to make it work?
How did you compensate for the required angles and length changes from engine through transmission to axle to avoid vibration and effect a clean install?
My questions may be ignorant of other overarching issues, so please feel free to add or subtract. I’m starting my project plan, so any advice based on your experience is appreciated.
Disclaimer right off the bat here-I swapped from a manual 3 speed to a TKO600 a few years back. I had the pedals though did ultimately change the clutch pedal as I wanted hydraulic clutch actuation. Some things are relevant to your situation some are not.
I did a piece meal collection from a variety of vendors-MDL (Fox body bellhousing, clutch slave cylinder), D&D (Detroit area Tremec dealer), California Pony Car, Summit/Ram Clutch, Coleman Racing (aluminum driveshaft), Malwood (hydraulic clutch pedal/master cylinder assembly).
I found a great deal on a MaxxJaxx half height lift and can’t imagine doing a trans swap with the car on jackstands. Can it be done, sure but it was much easier with the lift.
This is my story about putting a T-5 into my 1970 XR-7. I used a lit I got from CJ Pony Parts. The kit came from Modern Driveline. I highly recommend them. I used a cable system for my clutch, if I were to do it again, I think I would use a hydraulic system. But outside of that I love it.
I would suggest that you make a decision early on as to clutch release mechanism as it drives a number of of other selections such as bellhousing which then drives flywheel OD which then drives starter type/pinion depth/block plate type, etc.
I used the entire MDL driveline kit. Hydraulic clutch control, replaced the worn out factory clutch/brake pedal assembly, installing the roller bearing on the clutch pivot for longer life and easier actuation. I had to get a new driveshaft. A 3.73 9” rearwas installed, replacing the 3.00 8”. 9” has 31 splines, the TKO is 28 splines. Advisable to make sure both ends are the same splines. A bit more complicated if they are not, but there is/are work arounds. Make sure your u joints are the same size!!!
In all the years Ive found that using the original factory setup minus the clutch pedal return spring (monster spring) works the best. No issues with exhaust (headers), steering, leaks from a hyd clutch & all the issues that come with any modifications.
As always, we all have differing opinions. A diaphragm style clutch & lite return spring make driving very easy & much like a hyd setup!
Plan on changing your rear axle, ring and pinion also. Typically, to something in the neighborhood of 3.50:1. This is also the time to upgrade to a traction lock if desired.
Gearing…gearing…gearing. If you are running a carb , you need 1900 to 2100 rpm at cruse. A small block needs more gearing than a big block for driveability. I did a t5 in my old mopar flat head 6 years ago. Mathically , the gearing for a 2005 nissan turbo zx looked great. Put in a wc mustang input and a s10 tail shaft . .86 od ratio. Just make sure you dont have too much od and too low of a first gear
I would guess it might be a good choise for a 289/302 and about 3.4 to 3.5 gears. Mechanical speedo too.
For gear ratio checks and speed at rpm checks I like the calculators on the Tremec website. Helps to have your tire OD too. All that said, I also replaced the rear end with a 3:70:1 final drive ratio. My TKO has the 0.64:1 5th gear. I’m very happy with the changes.
To avoid a lot of issues and get a better transmission off the bat, I used a 98-01 v6 Mustang t5, which is the same as the world class cobra trans. It has a few good features like an 11 inch clutch instead of 10 or 10.5. It also has a specific input shaft that’s one inch longer than a fox body setup. So you need the bellhousing from the Mustang in addition to the trans. But if you get the whole thing from a donor, you’ll get a great setup. And it doesn’t cost much because it’s a little known secret t5 no one seems to want.
The gotcha is that it has an electronic speedo not a mechanical. If you want to use your cable drive you’ll have to mod the tailshaft for a gear. Might have to get a new tailshaft housing from a Camaro.
Apart from that, I used a tri-ax shifter because the stock shifter feels like you’re stirring chili with a hammer handle. I used a wilwood master cylinder, a generic stainless line, and a Miata master to push the fork. I did have to buy a 1/2 inch hardened twist drill bit to drill through the fork because it’s hardened steel. I made my own bracket for the Miata slave. I had to mod an off the shelf trans mount because the 98-01 trans is farther back and the mount is also.
If you purchase a used transmission, be aware there’s a 90% chance it’ll need something urgently, and it may require disassembly and reassembly of the trans. For example, my input shaft had a chip in it and I had to replace it. Also, you have a good chance in a high miles transmission that it’s been rebuilt by a goober with a ball peen and a tube of RTV. So, you may have to disassemble it to get the rtv out and apply flange sealer so everything works as delivered.
You’ll want a real flywheel, not the cheapest thing you can get. Something SFI certified is a good baseline. Many cast flywheels have been broken or cracked right out of the box for the last 10 years for various reasons. An SFI sticker usually means they are a notch better than the cheapos.
Always check your pilot bearing for fitment on the input shaft before you install it in the crank.
simple flywheel that can use 5.0 clutch, 5.0 bell, mustang Steve weld on components. Your c-4 driveshaft will work. cut the yoke slightly and chamfer the edges. also a trans crossmember, available anywhere for about 80.
I bought a Modern driveline kit for my Fairlane and it came with everything. even oil. just call Bruce at MDL and tell him you are converting from auto to manual and you need the pedal. Not everyone needs a pedal as many start with a 3 or 4 speed car. They are great to work with!