Manual Choke

Trying to install a Holley 2bbl on my '68 and am having problems with the manual choke. Should the spring be pulling towards the choke being closed or open? Currently its pulling towards closed, and is too strong for the choke cable, i.e. it pushed the cable out about 1/2 after I’ve opened it up. I’ve tried it the other way and the spring pops off, which tells me that’s not the way its designed. The detent ball and spring on the cam barely holds it in the open position, you can tap the lever and it will pop out and start to close.

I tried the electric choke conversion, but that configuration had the fast idle lever hitting the carb body when the throttle was opened (to set the choke initially) which displaced laterally it a few millimeters, and upon returning did not hit the fast idle cam properly. This caused the engine to race until it settled into the right position which didn’t always happen. At stop signs I had to keep the clutch partially engaged to keep the rpm’s down.

Any help would be appreciated. Would a locking choke cable be the answer?

What spring? Any manual choke I installed was straight-forward push open, pull closed, leave it anywhere you want and it stays there, and no spring. Pictures?

The Holley choke lever is pushed by the cable, and the spring does the opposite. The lever that the choke rod attaches to is the one I’m talking about, if you are familiar with those chokes. It would be simpler if it just attached and was just push/pull. In this setup there is a pin attached to the fast idle cam that pushes the choke lever or releases it -its not attached so it can’t pull it. I hope that makes sense. I’ll try to add a picture later if I can’t get it working.

Interesting. Is this the Holley 2bbl manual kit you’re using?

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/choke_components/parts/45-225S

Instructions: https://ac17cb7e3cc3506f0d23-7386afb7d61f5e5af0e5a817d2877bfe.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/199r7439rev1.pdf

Hard to believe the torsion spring could make the cable move. I am stumped.

That’s the one. The spring mount (the little oval piece with the small hole in the bottom center of the pic above - not the one for the fast idle lever) is fixed from rotating by being fitted on a spindle. However, you can take it off and rotate it 90 degrees. That seemed to solve the problem - there is still enough tension to close the choke, and it stays open with no problem.

From the directions: “Choke lever stamping assembly with spring loaded lever inward towards carburetor main body. Lever should be rotated clockwise so the end of the lever with the rod is extending to the right…” The spring loaded lever is loaded by the clockwise rotation.