Hi.
I have a 69 XR7 with power front disc brakes. I just had a Bendix booster rebuilt by Booster Steve and I need to get an idea on the best master cylinder to use. I do have two original Bendix masters but they were in a fire and got so hot that the lids and pistons melted. I might send them off to a place called White Post and get them sleeved if possible.
All I see are repos of Bendix and need to know the best to buy as not to leak out the rear and mess up my new booster.
Thanks.
I used the inexpensive repro that WCCC sells. It’s working well so far but I don’t think it’s appropriate for a high level restoration.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2140-ar.html?sessionthemeid=26
I just installed the one in Steve’s link and I’m happy with the quality.
Bendix gave up their hydraulics division years ago.
Now they make friction material pads & shoes & drum/rotors only.
I scored a bunch years ago, and have a few left for my personal “fleet”.
I have used the Rock auto ones w/ out any issues.
They sell a master cylinder power booster combo with a new brake pedal on ebay for around $200. Why bother with rebuilding anything unless you are going concourse. Planning on doing my car since my brakes are “funny” even after bleeding.
Pay attention to the cap too. The economy caps have a vent channel stamped into the cap. The channel is intended to vent air to the top of the gasket which also acts as a diaphragm. Unfortunately the channel also relieves the clamping force on the gasket directly beneath it. Believe it or not, the lower clamp force allows air to pass between the gasket and the reservoir casting underneath that channel. That air also contains humidity which DOT3 loves to absorb. If you have one of these covers take a look at the sealing surface on the reservoir the next time you take it off. You will likely be able to see some discoloration or corrosion underneath that channel.
If you can find an NOS cap you will see they don’t have that relief channel over the gasket but instead have a piercing on the top of the cap to equalize the pressure.
To help keep your fluid dry, get the right cap.
BTW - on modern cars the cap is designed to vent when the pressure or vacuum is large enough. I don’t remember the exact value. That is why it is now recommended to flush your brake fluid every couple years.
Can you PM me some links? I assume with using a non-standard setup you would have to plumb all new lines from the distribution block to the master cylinder?
I think my power booster is dead and I’m looking for options to replace it that won’t kill the bank.
Cheapest option is to have yours rebuilt by Booster Dewey. Turn time is about a week.
I can tell you an option that will disappoint you - buy a new booster from Stainless Steel Brakes. They are small and don’t work well.
Technically I believe the pierced version didn’t appear until 1973 and was sold as a service replacement thereafter. If you’re concerned about it being correct you need the channel version.
According to their website, turnaround time is 6-7 weeks.
I just had my Midland booster done a couple months ago and it took exactly 6 weeks from when I sent it to when I got it back.
Wow he has gotten busy! In any case there’s the cheapest option I know of.
I just got mine back two weeks ago. Looks great. That’s why I inquired about a good master to mate it to. Took 8 weeks and total cost was $205.00. I’m happy and the wait was worth it.
Here is my current setup. My booster holds vacuum until you press the petal and then it’s a major leak. The pedal is hard and the stopping power is limited and the master leaks fluid. That is why I’m following this thread.
I have the same issue booster holds vacuum then leaks if you push the pedal. The brakes are very hard and scary hard to stop at all. Could this just be the booster or master as well? I’m not sure how hard it is to stop without a booster. There is basicly nothing left to replace except the proportioning valve, and the brake light is on as well.
Ideas?
Both booster and master need to be rebuilt. The car isn’t safe to drive that way. Park it until it can be fixed properly.
