Master cylinders-

So, after a lengthy hiatus, I wanted to put my 68 back on the road. When I tried to move the car out of the drive way the brake pedal went to the floor. I checked the master, and it was a bit low, so I topped it off. Still NO pedal. So I went to the parts store, and bought a new master for the car, which I added front disc brakes to. My question is that since the car came with power drum brakes, but now has the disc set up, is that my best choice? Will it fit and bolt in with no issues? Or do I need to stick with the power drum master? Also, is there a common issue with synthetic brake fluid not working well, or synthetic fluids over all, having a negative affect on component life on these old cars?
Thanks-

You need a master cylinder for a disk brake car.

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You need to have a disc / drum master cylinder. Also the plumbing for a drum brake car does not have any provisions for a proportioning valve which is needed on a disc / drum car. Your options would be to install the factory prop valve or add an aftermarket one.

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It is also very important to get a master cylinder for power brakes, as the rod has a different attachment position. Power brakes have the rod higher on the brake pedal, while manual brakes have the pivot point lower for more leverage. If you get the wrong rod/master cylinder, it will not work, and may even cause your brakes to bind, either preventing you from stopping, or preventing you from letting off on the brakes!

So very specifically: you want a power brake master cylinder for a car that has disc brakes in front and drums in the back.

If you get one for a '74 Maverick, I believe it is the most common and cheap master cylinder that will work correctly for your stock booster and new disc brakes in front.

I was hoping that the power portion would allow for the different master- however I got a mirror to see under the master and there was no valve, just the block. So parts are on the way.