My 1968 XR-7 6.5L - Project Colorado Saxony

The Gmax tires see decent so far, especially for the price.

I haven’t done the drop yet. When I was under the car a few weeks ago, noticed a rubber blocks in the front coils…didn’t think anything of it at the time. A few day later I realized the previous owner probably put them in…I’ll pull them out soon to see how that drops the front.

You will yield less then 1” with the drop so keep that in mind. I have the same size tire, 1” lower springs and Shelby drop and think they height is pretty good. I may for a slightly taller wider tire eventually.

Another simple upgrade today…passenger side mirror from WCCC. The lack of a passenger side mirror always bothered me for simple things…like backing out of the garage.

Install was fairly simple as I measured the layout of the drivers side and then transferred onto tape on the passenger side. I already had an Astro 1442 rivnut tool, so it was just a matter of drilling 2 1/4" holes, primed/painted the hole, set the two rivnuts, touch of threadlocker on the screws, and adjusted the mirror. Glad WCCC’s video pointed out the 3rd screw inside the body of the mirror.

The mirror came with a Scott Drake pad for the base, unlike what was noted in the WCCC video…didn’t need to purchase the pad.

Installed Rocketman’s headlight relay kit today.

Hardest part was getting the drivers side connector apart, and then figuring out where to mount the relay boxes…placed them under the horns to hide them a bit.

Hopefully they brighten the stock lights a bit, but haven’t taken it out at night to know what they were originally like though.

https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all

Nice looking upgrade to a nice looking cat! Been wanting to do the same on mine - it’s bad enough not having an electronic blind spot monitor after getting used to them, let alone no mirror at all! Aftermarket blind spot monitor would be a nice add-on too.

Thanks. Never realized how much I depended on that mirror till I didn’t have one.

Another of set of tasks completed today:

  • Replaced the old cracked rear vent tube
  • Installed a new aluminum finned auto transmission pan (PML #11064, purchased from Bowler) with a drain plug. I used a LubeLocker gasket instead of the normal rubber / cork version as I have had good luck with them in the past on other vehicles. The pan is slightly deeper than the stock pan…I didnt go for the deep version. I was going to use studs, but decided to use the included bolt pans.
  • Filled it up with approx 7 quarts of Motorcraft Type F while bringing it up to speed. Drained and repeated. I was lazy and didn’t drain the torque converter, but assumed this would work. I may drain / fill in a month
  • Will retorque pan after a few heating cycles.


Nice! You got a lot more Cougar work done than I did today. How do you like those Race Ramps? My metal ramps are so heavy and big that I use jack stands, but don’t really trust them fully extended. Those look like you can safely get some good clearance underneath.

The Race Ramps are overpriced, but I needed them for a past Mustang that was lowered a bit. Beyond the price, I like them as they are two piece and light for storage, and I get decent working room underneath. Ironically, it’s also easier for me to work on the engine being raised as I’m 6’3”.

I wanted quick ramps, but they block the sides. My next house will have a garage for a lift…two post preferably.

A few more tasks done today:

  • Replaced all of the coolant hoses (heater, upper/lower radiator)…councours from WCCC

  • Replaced the heater control valve w/ac…was leaking

  • Replaced 160 degree thermostat with a 180 degree unit…tested in hot water first

  • Hardest part of this job was the lower radiator hose in positioning correctly to stay away from fan…wish the radiator side was about 1/2" - 1" longer

  • Letting the Permatex water pump gasket material cure overnight (applied very light coat on intake and housing) before filling tomorrow

  • Replaced the trunk weather stripping…used 3M super black weatherstrip adhesive, 3M adhesive remover, and a nylon pry tool

  • Job was fairly easy after marking trunk position with tape, and pulling it off the car. Most of the material came off easily with the pry tool as it was very brittle, and then softened remaining material with the 3M adhesive remover. I worked in short 18"ish sections…applying glue to car and weatherstrip, using acid brush to spread, wait about 30 seconds, then stick together…stayed together well.



Finally received a new lower radiator hose (Continental #60761), in addition to a new inner spring, as the new concours hose was a bit short (for me anyways) and just seemed too close to the belt. Worst case is I have a spare lower hose.

The Continental hose was about 3" longer at the radiator connection…I trimmed it back about 1". This provides quite a bit more clearance for the power steering belt.


While my car is still up on blocks, took care of a few more items today:

  1. Replaced the front / rear shocks with the KYB GR-2 / Excel-G shocks
  2. Installed a “clamp on” O2 bung on the drivers side exhaust as I purchased an AEM Electronics 30-0300 Wideband O2 sensor / gauge to help in tuning. I don’t plan on permanently installing it in the car at this time, but will jury rig the cable for the gauge to come in through the passenger side window while tuning. Hardest part was trying to find a good spot on my 2 1/4" exhaust to drill while maintaining a 10 degree or greater angle for the sensor.
    May have a “weld in” bung put in eventually for a cleaner look and support a potential Holly Sniper down the road.
  3. Installed the CJ Pony Parts seat extension to give me more leg room as I’m 6’3". Install was fairly easy and did provide a bit more room.


Went ahead and painted the pinch welds with Eastwood Semigloss chassis paint. I decided to mask it off though.

I didn’t snap a pic, but does a better job of concealing the pinch weld.

Hey Jeff. I am contemplating putting those rims on my Cougar as well. Going for 17" in the rear with drag radials and 15" in the front for more of an old school drag car look. Will select tire series to get the diameters in the 26" to 28" range. Any chance you could measure the distance from the rim to the leaf spring on the rear? I’ll get the 8" rim but the tires I am considering will be something like 10" or so. Any new feedback about the wheels is welcome. TIA!

Here you go…about 1 7/8” from sidewall to leaf…about another 1/4” to rim.

One of the last pics as I just sold it and moving to another project.

Well thanks for the pics. Glad I asked when I did. Good luck with the next project!

If needed Im running the same tire and wheel sizes as cheezer however mine is lowered. About an 1" in the rear and about 2 in the front

Oh cool! I guess I’d be interested to learn how much gap you have between the top of the tire and the inner fender lip. Especially as you are lowered. More pictures too if you can as I am still not settled on the look. TIA

I have some pictures after it was lowered on my project thread but I think it’s sitting a little lower now. I believe those pictures may have been prior to most of the interior getting installed. I’ll get some updated ones and a ride height measurement.


I’ll measure the clearance in the rear for you. I know for sure I can get a bigger tire in there even with it being lower. I played it safe on these sizes since I didn’t have a good reference point for a lowered car and mine was not fully
assembled.

Rear tire clearance is 2” from inner fender and just shy of that to spring. This is on a 245/45R17 general gmax RS tire. 17x8” 4.5BS wheel.

Rear right height is 27” and front ride height is 26” measured at center of wheel well.