Is there a difference btw, the left map light toggle switch, and the right map toggle switch, specifically, where the connector connects to the harness?
The left has a black connector, and the right has a blue connector, but they “look” like the same configuration.
Part 2, It’s been so log since I removed the steering wheel, can’t remember exactly how to put back in. I put the shaft back in, it “slid in” past the nylon thng a ma jigs that is part of the collapsing column, the problem is when placing the wheel on the shaft, I get the grooves lined up, it slides on,to a point, leaving a gap of at least 1 1/2" before the base of the wheel would contact the top of the steering column.
Am I missing something, a spacer etc, looking at the shop manual, it doesn’t look as if something is missing, and the instructions are pretty basic.
I’m not familiar with these connectors (i.e. don’t have them memorized like I do the Mustangs!), but Ford always tried to color code either the wires or the connectors to make it easy for the assembly-line installers put things together (as well as 40+ years later, old farts that like to take things apart and try and put them back together!).
I would like to help, but I can’t figure out what you are asking…
The plugs are color coded at the switches, but it looks like you know that. The switches would be interchangeable if you rewired them, it is the same switch on either side, just the color codes for the wires are different.
I can’t really fathom what you have done on part 2. Did you some how pull the steering shaft out through the top of the column, and now the shaft is too high? Maybe pictures will help.
If the switches are the same why, would I need to rewire, the connectors, look to be the same shape one female and one male connector, the only difference looks to be the color.
Yes that is correct, shaft was removed, when installing it, it seem’s to have “slipped” down into the female part of the shaft all of the way, but when I put the wheel on the shaft, I still have about 1 1/2 " before I get to the part of the column that contains the directional guts, hazard button and direction signal lever
No Need to rewire unless you just want to keep things original looking. The switches are the same.
I had no idea you could even pull the shaft out the top. Didn’t think it was even possible. Someone else here maybe can answer. I have a '68 column that I will look at the next time I am able to get to it. I have heard that there are internal plastic pieces that tend to self destruct with the column is disassembled. Plastic stuff doesn’t survive well after 40 years or so. It might be a part that we are all going to need in the future.
The body shop somehow removed it, ,yes the shaft turns from round into a rectangle, sort of, it has flat spots on both sides, and rounded edges, the part of the shaft that is shapes this way, has 2 plastic type bands/inserts, that are flush with the shaft, these are supposed to have knobs/knorbs on them, these are what break off, (I think) when the column collapses. Yes there is a rubber doughnut at the top of the shaft, that goes over possibly a ball bearing assembly, the shaft is again thread at that spot, and it’s held in place by a snap ring.
When I install the shaft, the rubber seal/doughnut is smashed against the guts of the turn signal stuff. I bought this shaft several years ago om ebay, I do still have my original, but it’s missing the ball bearing assembly, do have the rubber.
I am living about an hour away from my garage, cars and stuff. I will take the '68 column apart the next time I get to go over there, and see what is going on, maybe get some pics. In the meantime maybe someone else has conquered this beast.
That would be great, I worked on it for a couple of hours, until I got too cold, it’s like 5 outside with the wind chill, garage is heated, but the floor is like ice, didn’t want to go back out there and attempt to replicate and take photos, I not good at uploaded photos on most sites.
I’ll take some pictures and post them. Maybe that will help you see where the shaft should be in relation the the hub assembly on the steering column.
Steven
Thanks for the photos, just saw them, AFTER I solved the problem, but if I hadn’t, your photos would have fixed the problem.
After two bouts with Cancer, I’ve suffered the dreaded" Chemo Brain", sometimes I’m normal, sometimes the thinking process gets muddy, and simple problems, turn into major deals. Until I really take a lot of time and try to figure things out. And what are the simple answers, and quite obvious, just don’t appear, until I do take extra time.
The whole problem was I was trying to install the steering shaft, AFTER I had installed the turn signal switch, which prevented the shaft from going into the column completely. I finally figured out why the rubber doughnut was hitting the switch, DUGH. Removed switch, , installed shaft, installed steering wheel, took all of 30 min.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help fit a round shaft into a square hole
Helping each other is what makes this site great. I’m glad you figured it out. As Bill stated I hope you are recovering well. Wishing you the best.
Steven
