New 1968 Cougar Owner

Cougar Community
1

Hi Cougar owners,

I just bought my first Cougar! It’s a Lime Green Frost 1968 302/2V. Auto, PS/PB, front disc/rear drum. Dan Gurney decal in the rear window. The car is in great shape, not showcar quality, but excellent, excellent driver quality. It’s been sitting 20 years, so there’s some work to do, but I’ve already got it running and driving…

This is my first classic. My background is all late-model Mustang, from a 1986 GT to a 2015 GT/PP and lots in between. I say this because I’m pretty spoiled with modern handling and reliability… I’ve got an idea of what I want to do with it, and I thought I’d run my ideas by this forum to see if there are things that are not recommended:

  1. T-5 swap, kit from MDL

  2. 3.50:1 gears/Eaton Tru-Trac

  3. Subframe connectors

  4. Front suspension upgrades like control arms, springs, shocks, and sway bar

  5. Rear sway bar and adjustable shocks

  6. Edelbrock 500 cfm carb/Performer intake

  7. mild cam

  8. shorty headers/dual exhaust

The mission is to make it a cross-country driver. In that way, I like the idea of preserving it’s stock look, but I’m in no way a purist. If a better functioning part sacrifices originality, I’m going with it…

TIA!

-Jeff

2

Sounds like a good plan. I have something similar. I recommend a hydraulic clutch system.

1 Like
3

The guys at MDL are great to work with! I got my full kit from them including the under dash set up. Works like a dream!

Also running subframe connectors, DSE coil over front suspension and a true trac rear end! Happy to help with any advice you need

4

I was planning on a cable setup for simplicity… do you recommend the hydraulic setup for driveability?

5

That’s great to hear… I also need the pedals since the car is currently auto… is a pedal box required for the clutch pedal? Or is the box already there?

6

Not sure what you mean by “pedal box”. The same bracket is used for a clutch equipped car, it just uses different pivot points. The kit from Mustang Steve or Scott Drake is recommended to decrease pedal pressure,

7

This is the under dash set up I went with. No need for the big cable set up. Hydraulic is the way to go!

https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/mdl-stealth-series-1967-1968-ford-mustang-in-dash-hydraulic-clutch-master-system/

8

Oh that’s great to know… that answers my question. So it sounds like all I need is the clutch and brake pedal, and it bolts into the existing bracket… thanks!

9

I think my concern is, being really focused on reliability, I wouldn’t want to deal with a hydraulic throw-out bearing. The OEM’s make pretty good TOB’s, that usually last around 100k miles… I guess I’m a little skeptical of aftermarket hyd TOB’s, especially when I can get a Ford TOB for a T-5… but I’m guessing you don’t have any issues with yours so far?

10

No issues at all! Drove it around all summer. Works like a dream!

IMG_4432
IMG_44324032×3024 2.81 MB

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IMG_45284032×3024 3.53 MB

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IMG_45274032×3024 2.64 MB

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IMG_45244032×3024 3.5 MB

2 Likes
11

Man, thanks so much for the input… I’m now going to stew on this a bit. I’ve driven clutch cable cars a lot, but it’s hard to beat the clutch actuation on a hyd setup…

Is that a TKO?

12

It’s a TKX. :grin:

13

Is that a GT500 behind the TKX?

14

Good eye! Yes it was. 1968 GT500 KR actually. 4 speed car with AC! Dad was helping out with some repairs on it.