Hello,
I decided to buy a whole new carb to get the car running again. I let it sit for 9 months an the carb is pouring gas everywhere. Lesson learned. I ordered the exact same Holley to replace. I count 5 gaskets, including the aluminum plate. Do I need all of the gaskets shown in the pics (plus the regular carb gasket not shown, stuck to the bottom of the carb). Do I need ANY of them, except the new base gasket?
1968 Cougar base, 289, Weiand manifold.
See pics please.
If you keep the plate you should only need 2 gaskets. One on top and one under the plate.
Thanks Neil.
I’ll second the above. I heard one time that gas would boil out of a hot carb, causing it to have a hard start after it sat awhile. People would put on extra gaskets etc to give the carb space between it and the manifold, to stop some of this. Don’t know how true that is, but I do know that you can buy a heat resistant carb spacer.
Agree with the comments. A four hole spacer is most likely the right choice for that intake. I read somewhere that the way CFM were specified has changed over the decades. Perhaps more important when changing brands of carbs. Be sure it’s the exact replacement.
Up here in Colorado 5500’+ heat is a real issue on carbs. We have to use “special” gas during the summer months to reduce emissions. The point of vaporazion is lower due to the additives & the altitude.
Common to use something like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-108-51?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8rO2k_f06QIVT_DACh0RywroEAQYBSABEgIaNvD_BwE
24" rad, shroud, & fan clutch are a must here also!
I run one of these alone (i.e., also serves as gasket) between my Holley 80457 and a similar Weiand with divided plenum.
https://www.edelbrock.com/heat-insulator-gasket-for-divided-4150-square-bore-0-320-thick-9266.html
It’s been good to me and the carburetor, ending heat soak weirdness. It’s not even a full 3/8" thick, so I have good hood clearance.
Thanks all.
Great info.
My replacement carb is the exact one coming off- also a Holley 80457.