Installing new springs from Easton on my 69 428 vert. Does anyone satin or clear coat these before installation to prevent rust? Also, trying to find out the correct leaf spring paint color for the stripes on them.
I would try them on the car first and if they are the right ride height then maybe do a satin clear on them? Have not had good luck with their springs. Always too high or too low.
My Master Parts Catalog shows that the 428CJ engine with body code 76 not equipped with trunk mounted battery had one violet and two green stripes on P/N C9WY 5560-N leaf springs.
perfect- ty for the advice and will try them for ride height fit.
Like the idea of testing them first for correct height
Would not suggest painting them since they originally were not if your going for original look. Wear points will wear through the paint and allow rust to start and getting rid of the rust and repainting can be a pain. Removing the factory Eaton coating has been reported as a paint.
If you have to paint you will have to disassemble strip and paint the leaves individually. I’ve used in the past a base of Eastwood phosphate applied in a couple of full coats then over coating with a full but dry coats (too many or too heavy will produce a gloss you don’t want) of Dark Charcoal Metallic interior paint for the slight metal flake it needs. Add your strips after that.
If not disassemble, stripe, color the springs , apply the stripes then coat with protective film/oil and reassemble. In both choices the spring clamps are a very different (springs are dark heat treated - clamps fresh new steel look) finishes and should contrast each other
Will test fit, and then I do like the idea of a light coating after applying the stripes.
Years ago I tried carrying the Eaton Spring line but they were always too high and when you called to try to resolve it with them they claimed they never missed and it was my problem.
…first time posting,: I just joined in, Don , thank you for all your support throughout this years, I came across the discussion while looking for suggestions to a problem I have, on my 67 std. I had the leaf springs taken apart, and powder coated black, i replaced the front bushing with new ones, and replaced the spacers, the clamps, the insulators, and ordered new U bolts, I have a 3/8 pax side higher than driver’s, I tried (just to test) a 1" higher spring shackle on lower side, and made no diff. so I went for 1 1/2, and lowered the pax side by 1/2 with a custom made from st/steel stock and 1/2 inch s/s bolts, and the problem persists, which I assume the driver side spring leaf keeps getting flatter. Now I did see the Eaton springs where you can order standard or rise or lower the ride, but after reading Don’s comments I will stay away from that brand. anyone has had a good experinence with a particular supplier?. any advise highly appreciated. btw, the front of the car is also slightly lower on the driver side. (1/8) inch, so at least I think the car is not “twisted” !!
My favorite leaf spring is restoring the originals. Any decent spring shop can re - arch a leaf spring. They can replace the original pads and spring eyes too. Very inexpensive. They will last decades after being re-arched. It really depends more on how much mileage the springs have and how much load they were exposed to.
Well… I should have listened to Royce and had my old leaf springs re-arched (BTW, they were the same Eaton ML-5739 springs). The new ones ordered through NPD were WAY too low, even lower than the old ones. I have contacted NPD and will likely return them. Will keep the group updated and how this goes.
One of my favorite places in Dallas is the leaf spring company Truett Worral. Their street is almost swallowed up by expansion of Parkland Hospital, yet their property looks much the same as it probably did 50 years ago. You can either bring them the springs or the entire car - they just need to know how much to change and which direction.
I took these pictures in 2017. I hope it’s still exactly like this today.
No city of Dallas code inspector would ever sign off on construction like this - it’s really bad!
So I left the new NPD leaf springs on while I take the old ones to be re-arched. NPD has asked me to measure the distance between the top of the axle in between the U bolts to the underside of the frame rail above- We get a distance of about 4.5 inches with the new springs on. Wondering what other folks with similarly set up big block XR7 verts have as that same distance? Please send your responses to this thread and maybe we will find something that needs to be updated…
NPD says the chassis manual calls for 4.67 inches top of axle tube to frame. My measurement is 4.5 inches, so close, but it looks like it is sitting low. Perhaps this is just the factory rake for these cars?
Keep in mind the handling package called for about 3/4" lower ride than standard handling IIRC
Cougars seem to sit a little low in the rear.
Could do the Shelby drop, even it out.
I really appreciate everyones input, and especially the info from Don saying that the Performance Handling had the car sitting 3/4 inch lower in the back. In any case, I took my old springs to Truett-Worrall Spring in Dallas (they sat low, the same as the new springs) and they said they are off by 1 to 1 1/2 inches. So…
Not sure who is right and not sure it matters if NPD will give me my money back. Bottom line: stock springs MAY be listed wrong by Eaton and therein NPD for 69 428 vert with battery under the hood. Unless you like the “low in the back” raked look. If you want to get that look like the car is level (and I did), you may need to re-arch 1 to 1 1/2 inches.
67-68’s do sit a little lower in back, but it was not noticeable on the 69-70’s even with the handling package.
What’s the general consensus on ESPO springs?
My personal experience, they are cheaper than Eaton by 50%. They don’t look as close to stock as Eaton. They do nail the ride height. I’ve bought three sets, if you are ok with aftermarket springs they are a quality choice. If you want authentic looking springs then re - arched originals are the way to go.
Royce,
I have spoken to 2 spring shops and a customizer up here (Massachusetts). They have all declined to rearch, saying it won’t last. Any thoughts as to what is done at the shop in Dallas; versus the consensus I am finding here?