We built our previous home in Arizona with TWO urinals - one in the master bath and one between the boys’ bedrooms! It was awesome!! I’m dying without one at our new place…so I just whizz outside. 
I’ll definitely check those out. I’m thinking uppers and lowers with workspace on either side of the lift. I’ve also got about a dozen of those 6’x2’x8’metal shelving units that can handle 2-4 shelves each for larger parts and whatnot.
I replaced my solid workbench (with vise on one corner) and went with a 72” multidrawer workbench top roller chest a few months ago. I mounted my vise back in the same corner and it is much better for me than my original solid workbench because of the mobility and storage. Very good call.
Gutters and water barrels.
Since you mentioned a lift…and if I read correctly the floors are poured already. Forgive my layman terminology, but when they pour cement every so many feet they put “footers” across. You didn’t say 2 post or 4 so may or may not be an issue.
I luv my rolling cabinet/tool/bench, so much I’m going to buy another one lol. I don’t like the backboard like you pictured, but that’s just me, Don’t have any experience with Milwauke, I bought Husky from HD and am pleased. As you know in your build the cash register starts ching chinging quickly and saving a hundred bucks here and there helps.
As previously said, the more LED lights the better, elec outlets the more the merrier and 120/240 power.
Just a thought since I’m spending your money, a generator with a propane tank for backup. Don’t know how cold it gets where you are, or how power reliability is, but I can sweat through the heat, but when it starts getting close to 0 and below nothing is getting done.
Good Luck and keep the pictures coming 
Yes. 4" of concrete with 3000 psi is required for placing my 2-post. I pretty much doubled what was recommended in the lift bay.
I’m not set on that Milwaukee, just looked in google for an example. Another Cougar brother about 10 posts back recommended New Age Industries. Nice stuff, but I’ll research it more.
Thanks man. We have a 325 propane tank going in for Amy’s new kitchen (part of the horsetrade for me getting my shop), so that’ll power a portable generator. Our new neighbors clan have lived on their ranch for 40 years and only remember one power outage (after an ice storm) that lasted more than 24 hours.
I did snap a couple of photos…
Great photo’s…sounds like your covering all the bases
I have been following this thread as well. I have had a couple of larger and detached garages and can say that everything I would and want has been mentioned. AC/Water/220V/ Insulated and LOTS of Storage area to organize projects and parts.
The photos show a great looking shop!!!
Congrats,
Ken
Being a retired Navy man, fire was our biggest concern all the time. A simple trash can fire can destroy all your work. Install a Halon fire suppression system. Put in over head sprinklers that the fire dept can hook their 1 1/2" hose to and spray water inside. Put portable extinguishers everywhere. Make sure you have one master electric kill switch to the whole building.
Make sure you have more then 1 exit and a extinguisher at each exit. Always have a phone with you when in the building and tell someone when you go do some work out there. KEEP ALL FLAMMABLE liquids in a special locker outside the building. Always keep it clean and no oily rags laying around. Talk to the local fire dept that would be the ones to respond and have them to a walk thru and suggestions. Make a detailed map of your building for them if they do have to respond with where all flammable liquids are and what types you have. Make a special area for all your welding that has metal protection from sparks flying.
Put in surveillance cameras inside and out and make sure your insurance covers what you have. You never know how much insurance you need until you need it.
So my OP mentioned that I retired…I was a 28-yr city fire captain. 
So your points are well-taken.
But the WiFi security cameras are in one of those boxes in the photos. 
There are a lot of good safety recommendations in this thread. Everybody does GFCIs for their 120V outlets, but many don’t think about it for the 240V ones. One of our car club members was electrocuted when he reached for something behind his air compressor and became the path to ground between his compressor and the concrete floor. Now it is true that if his compressor was properly grounded the breaker or fuse would have blown. But for whatever reason it wasn’t, and he paid the ultimate price.
If you are using an electrician for your hookup he will know about the codes and GFCIs. I have found GFCIs are much more available for commercial/light industrial grade service centers (for example SquareD QO) than for residential grade equipment (for example SquareD Homeline). The difference in price between the two GFCI lines easily justified installing a new QO box next to an existing not very full Homeline box.
As for 120V outlets, if you hook them up as a pair of outlets coming from a 2 pole breaker with one Line on the red wire, the other Line on the black wire, and of course the Neutral on the white wire you can have 120V or 240V at each outlet location . You can find the circuit diagram on Square D’s website. It is called a Multi-wire Branch Circuit. An electrician will know about this too.
2 post or 4 post lift?
I had a 2 post lift. The easy access to everything under the car was nice, and the suspension was always fully extended which improved access. As I got older my knees complained more about me getting on my hands and knees to set the pad positions. Also given the importance of balance, and how easily you can upset that balance by tugging or pushing on something, I always used 4 safety stands under the vehicle. Unfortunately, now there is a little more stuff to work around when you are working under the vehicle.
My next hoist will be a 4 post. The balance issue is gone. I don’t usually need the weight off the suspension when working on the car. If you are going to do paint work on the hoist you don’t have to work your gun around the posts and arms. If I want to take the weight off the suspension I can put the previously mentioned safety stands at four lift points and set the car on them as I lower the ramps until the wheels are unweighted. The ramps are still available as the safety support should a stand fail. Or I can get the jack tray accessory for the lift. Most 4 posts have a caster set so you can move the unloaded hoist to a different location if needed.
Of course you need to figure out what works for you. These are just my experiences with a 2 post, and what I expect with a 4 post.
