I need some advice, last year I put Hooker long tubes on my cat and per the instructions I added a power steering lower bracket. This past weekend I noticed a clicking noise while turning left and found the following (see pic), it seems that the addition of the larger tires and the angle at which the ram is now positioned because of the lowering bracket has caused too much stress on the frame rail pulling the frame nuts through and peeling the frame rail metal apart. I am looking at doing a Borgeson conversion to eliminate the ram, can anyone give me some insight on this conversion with respect to the tilt away column, any fitment issues, quality of the product, ease of installation or any tips. I think repairing what I have is not the best option?
69 convertible, 351W, tilt away, Automatic
Thanks,
Matt
If it were me, I would get a welding shop to repair the damage and then I would buy one of the bullet-proof brackets that CANNOT pull out (due to it’s design) from WCCC and put it on. This is what I run. If you go the route I am suggesting, you need to make sure the shop repairs the nutserts too (they could just weld regular nuts on the inside which is currently exposed if the current nutserts are not serviceable). Here’s a (blurry!) picture of mine/what I’m talking about:
I went the Borgeson route on mine with tilt-away and had no real problems. Steering works great and I am very pleased. I did have to convert to a hydraulic throw out bearing set up but you won’t have that issue with an automatic.
Get the kit that includes the centerlink adapter. I used the GM style powersteering pump and have had no issues.
You might have to trim a small amount from the bottom of the steering column if I remember correctly, but it was no big deal for me.
The Hooker instructions clearly state that the bracket must be welded in place. You didn’'t follow the directions, and the predictable result happened. Been there, done that, got the T shirt. A competent welder can fix it in an afternoon.
A lousy solution but one that takes some of the stress off the nutserts at least (which is why it works). The WCCC bracket is the only way to fly which doesn’t permanently append a crappy bracket to your car.
That bracket is an amazing piece. Designed by a engineer friend & Cougar nut. This can’t tear out of the frame like the ones provided in some header kits. DON"T use them, toss in recycle pile.
As you can see it is a major improvement, but a ding to the pocket book.
Based on damage, maybe the bracket is cheaper?
Amen brother BIll! 
The solution that I advocate is to buy better headers that don’t require the power steering to be dropped. The WCCC bracket is better, but it still hangs low enough that it will one day be ripped right off along with the bolts and the frame.
The FPA headers have good design but sometimes suffer from lousy execution. The price is fair, expect to need to dimple the headers and trim your motor mounts some:
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm
JBA headers are first quality and you pay for it:
http://jbaheaders.com/index.asp
Do such headers exist? I do not know of/have never heard of any. Maybe you are talking Tri-Y’s for FE’s? 
FPA is way expensive from my recollection but I like the “inside the frame” claim (if it would be true for my car, I dunno).
Also, I have read that the guy (FPA) is a grump, I generally avoid doing business with grumps.
JBA doesn’t even make Cleveland headers, guess I am a dinosaur now.
Sanderson makes a reasonably priced set of 351C shortys:
Have run across those somewhere along the line. Long tubes are much better performing in my estimation. With my bullet-proof drop bracket (I invite you to explain how this could possibly rip out/come apart, take a close look at how it attaches) and Hooker long tubes, I am very happy.
I agree with open exhaust on the dyno you might see two - three more horsepower and a bit more torque with long tube equal length headers. On the street, through mufflers and a full exhaust system, doubt there is a measurable difference. In any case its not worth the effort to change out since you already have what you have.
For the benefit of those who are building something that they want to be the best it can be and save 4" or more ground clearance the shortys are the way to go.
By the way, JBA built the long tube headers on my '67 351 Cleveland 4 speed Cougar (formerly Ruben Lopez SCCA Group II car). They will build anything that you need - for a price.
Nice hijack.
From ‘Here is a better bracket’ to ‘You should just pull the engine and spend a grand putting in different exhaust and scrapping the grand you already spent.’
Good heads up CatVert, and solution from Bill, some people WANT pipes like Shelby would have done.
PIIIIIIIIPES!
Sorry about the hijack but it is all related to the thread topic, maybe more than the OP wanted to know but related just the same!
I went with the Borgeson PS steering box to replace the old power assist on my 69 XR-7 hardtop last winter. In my opinion it is a great modification. I actually utilized the original PS pump but changed to a smaller diameter pulley which increased pressure at idle. No need in my case to change to the GM PS pump. Had to modify the high pressure hose for my application but the included hose should work just fine for most installations. Also had to ding one tube for additional clearance on my headman headers. The steering column outer tube had to be trimmed about 1".
Shop around for the best price on the kit. I purchased from Summit Racing which has free shipping for items over $100. The kit was in stock and shipped the same day.
Good luck.
Bryan
Hey guys, I have gone the borgeson route, already I stalled and awaiting the Saginaw pump I order due to line clearance. It was touching the manifold. Anyways, looking to get into my exhaust shortly and want to go headers. Bryan if your still around could you fill me in on the Hedman? Anyone with the borgeson box too, if you have recommendactions on headers I’d love feedback.
That’s unfortunate about your car. I too have the bulletproof drop down bracket on mine. I will have mine welded on by next weekend. Good luck getting yours repaired and back on the road.
Personally, I see no need to weld the bulletproof bracket. If you look at the frame “through-bolt”, it would have to take most of the frame with it in order to come out (in spite of what Royce says).
This not to mention that once it’s welded, it’s pretty much part of the car. Would be very hard to get off later if one had a change of plans.
I tend to agree with xr7vert on both the bracket and long tube argument. On a mild or stock street engine the difference is negligible. But, the hotter the engine, the more those differences show themselves. If you can feel it in the seat, then the difference is more than a couple of ponies or lbs/ft.
Great topic, I see this originally was a couple years old but a good read none the less! All of these topics have been on my mind for my build plans.
I want to run headers but have a 3 speed, p/s and smog system(will be removed). Space is limited on the driver side and trying to envision long tubes in there makes my head hurt. The worse part about the power assist is of course that ram being in the way along with the lines, so depending on how worn my box is and the cost of a rebuild it might just make sense to make the borgenson swap and do away with the clutter of the ram etc. But its a pricey swap so its a little farther down the list of needs. However I need to redo the exhaust on the car pretty bad(think very poor cherry bomb pipes!) so kinda looking at headers sooner then later. If going with headers I would like to make sure they fit currently and down the road. The motor will eventually get rebuilt but only mildly so nothing crazy. The shorty or mid length headers might be the ticket? I know JBA makes a good project and if they fit my application it would be worth the cash for a set of ceramic coated headers if of course I can continue to use them down the road