One wire alternator woes

I just converted to a new serpentine belt/bracket system on my 1967 standard with a 302, so during the conversion I switched to a 140 amp one wire alternator.

I ordered the painless wiring kit with it. Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem to be working at all.

I have both the original + wire (black) and the new painless wire hooked to the + on the alternator. Those run to a 200 amp fuse. Then the fuse connects to the battery. All connections there are clean and test good.


That was supposedly all it took, but I was getting nothing, so I hooked the ground wire from the old alternator (black with red stripe) to the ground connection on the new alternator. Still nothing.

I took the alternator to both O’Reillys and Autozone to have it tested, but since they don’t have a part number for it, the machine won’t run it.

Am I missing something stupid? I’m starting to think the alternator was DOA, but no way to tell.

Any help is appreciated.

I guess hook it strait to the battery and see but your right should not be dead on the git go. But then you know should be throwing out 13-14 volts. Not unless some of the alternators are reversed like the waterpumps are on some serpentine systems.

I pulled it all apart, double checked connections and put it back together. Now I’m getting 13 volts at idle and 12.8 with the headlights on. I think this alternator is bad.

The one wire connects through a fusible link to the + terminal on your battery. You need to rev the engine once to get the alternator on line. It should be producing 13.2 - 14.7 volts at idle. If it doesn’t you have a bad alternator.

Question: Why are you doing this?

Ok, I wish I could say I figured it out, but I just pulled it off this morning and re-clocked it, so I could reach the positive terminal easier with the tester. When I put it back on, it was working. Didn’t change a thing in regard to the wiring. Who knows?

I was switching to the higher amp alternator to handle an electric fan, AC, upgraded headlights and a nice radio.


If I run a line from the battery or from accessory power to the 3rd prong on the regulator, which is no longer being used, will it kick the amp light off?

With the one wire alternator you will need to add a voltmeter to monitor alternator performance. The alternator light won’t easily adapt.

I think I found the solution. I’ll test this evening.

It can’t be THAT complicated to let an indicator light know the car has more than 12 volts.

1 Like

did this work out for you?

did this solution for the dummy light work? about to install a one wire on my '70

thanks

It did work to shut off the warning light, but the plug I ordered to fit the back of the alternator wasn’t well constructed and kept falling out. I finally gave up on it and let the dash light burn out.

1 Like